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Jensen's Jugs 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Randy Judycki & Derek Jensen, 1992
Page Views: 1,454
Submitted By: M. Morley on Feb 15, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Jenson's Jug anchor - replaced Jan 2015 along with...


Start left of Grib Dat Hole. Runout, but easy climbing to the third bolt, just DON'T FALL (ground fall)! Crux is high and well-protected.


4 protection bolts, 2-bolt anchor.

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By Matthew Fienup
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 24, 2007
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13

Feels WAY hard for the grade to me--5.10+ in my book.
By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Apr 18, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

I thought about protecting the move to the bolt above the cave by tying a sling around the bottom of the huge hole, but it might not have been that strong. Definitely harder than 10b. It is at least 10d. The open shuts up top have had alot of rock wear out from under them, but still seem mostly secure. The third bolt at the anchor is a good idea.
By Michael Bartosek
From: Los Angeles
Aug 16, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R

Easy climbing to the 3rd bolt????

Cleary this is a height dependent statement. Even clipping the second bolt feels precarious and tricky with a certain decking event if you fall. I think next time I'll sling that hold as well, better than nothing, but really this route could use one bolt to prevent a groundfall.
By Matt N
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Nov 24, 2010

We also used the upper bolts for anchors as the hooks have a lost some rock around them and didn't sit well with us for TR'ing.
By Richard Shore
Jan 21, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13

I used the natural thread with a 4' sling as pro before clipping that 3rd bolt. Clipping the 3rd bolt is not height dependent either - I am 6'3" and it is committing and scary, especially when you consider the near-groundfall potential.
By Jan Roestel
Apr 11, 2011
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

The natural thread mentioned above has a crack completely down the leftside. The whole area around the hole seems to be more hollow and flexible than I previously remember.
By Floyd Hayes
Dec 27, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

I couldn't find the first bolt (missing?), which wouldn't have been necessary (easy climbing), so I wound up clipping only three. I used a sling on the arch to protect the sketchy move to the bolt protecting the crux--I'm pretty sure it would have held a short fall. I'm 5'10" and was able to cruise through the crux, but my 5'7" and 5'3" companions couldn't reach the jug at the crux, so for them it was a 5.11.
By Robert Holder
Feb 17, 2015
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

I found it slightly harder than Grib Dat Hole , but that may just be psycological:
The crux of Grib is just off the ground, whereas the crux (in my opinion) for Jensen's is a few moves below the anchor after the "big move" on jugs, which gets you a little pumped.

The climb was well-protected when I did it. There is some run-out at the bottom in a ~5.5-5.6 section, but you are never far from a bolt on the hard moves.
By Larry Shaw 1
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 14, 2016

Feels stiff for a .10 Don't blow the second bolt, the hole between the first and second bolt has a fracture on the side, but might make for psychological pro.

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