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Jemez Valley Area

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Area 37 
Battleship Rock 
Crag 121 (a.k.a Rabbit Rock) 
Gilman Tunnels 
Jemez Cave (a.k.a. Crystal Cave) - CLOSED 
Jemez Falls 
Juno Tower 
Las Conchas 
Ponderosa Bouldering 
Upper East Fork (UEF) 
Rest Day:
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From MP's sister site:

Jemez Valley Area Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 35.7896, -106.687 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 126,710
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Aug 7, 2006
Forecast:
This Afternoon

45° | 23°
Sunday

45° | 28°
Monday

51° | 32°
Tuesday

42° | 20°
Wednesday

44° | 20°
Thursday

49° | 25°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Starting into the final arete. March 2009.

Description 

From Granite to welded tuft to travertine; single pitch, multi-pitch. and bouldering, this area has various types of rock and styles of climbing and bouldering. There is something for everyone here!

Climbing areas throughout this area include: Gilman Tunnels, Battleship Rock, Jemez Cave (a.k.a. Crystal Cave) - CLOSED, Area 37, and Las Conchas.

Getting There 

From Albuquerque start North on 25 to Bernalillo, exiting North at highway 550 (exit # 242, DON'T miss this exit, the next exit does not come for many miles). Follow 550 to San Ysidro and head North on state road 4. All the areas branch from here.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.5 miles from here

453 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',23],['3 Stars',174],['2 Stars',178],['1 Star',71],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',6],['5.7',6],['5.8',25],['5.9',30],['5.10',80],['5.11',84],['5.12',51],['5.13',13],['>=5.14',2],['',0],['<=V1',21],['V2-3',22],['V4-5',37],['V6-7',29],['V8-9',14],['V10-11',10],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Jemez Valley Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Jemez Valley Area:
King for a Day   V6+ 7A     Boulder   The Pond : King for a Day Boulder
Crucible   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Las Conchas : Cattle Call Wall Area
Bovine Inspiration   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Las Conchas : Cattle Call Wall Area
Hollywood Tim   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Las Conchas : The Sponge
Demanda   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Upper East Fork (UEF) : Spaghetti Western Wall Area
Drive By Shooting   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport   Las Conchas : Gateway Rock
Forest   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Las Conchas : Gateway Rock
Cowboy Up   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Upper East Fork (UEF) : Spaghetti Western Wall Area
Cow Pies For Breakfast   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Las Conchas : Cattle Call Wall Area
Pumping Huecos   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 50'   Las Conchas : The Sponge
Leprosy   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport   Area 37
Werepig   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Upper East Fork (UEF) : Monster Wall
Udder Limits   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Las Conchas : Cattle Call Wall Area
Metamuscle   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 65'   Las Conchas : Retirement Wall
Pegasus   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Upper East Fork (UEF) : Monster Wall
Silverback   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 75'   Las Conchas : Retirement Wall
Chupacabra   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Upper East Fork (UEF) : Monster Wall
The Color of Optimism   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 80'   Las Conchas : Easy Bake Alcove
Death Grip   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Las Conchas : Love Shack Area
Mainliner   5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   Las Conchas : Leaning Tower
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Jemez Valley Area

Featured Route For Jemez Valley Area
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben Alford struggles through the first pitch of Vi...

Vicarious Living 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  New Mexico : Jemez Valley Area : ... : Spectator Wall
Start on the small bouldery outcrop. The first bolt is above the outcrop. First pitch (10c) is appx 100 feet to a two bolt anchor. Head to the left of a small overhang (crux), then to the right of a larger overhang. Second pitch (10b) is bolted straight up to top (appx 100 feet). See Jemez Rock and Pecos Area guide by Marc Beverly for picture of route....[more]   Browse More Classics in New Mexico

Comments on Jemez Valley Area Add Comment
Show which comments
By Reedrombo
From: Home is where you park it
May 9, 2015
Hey everyone, not a local, just passing through climbing at a few crags. Just passed through the town of Coyote, NM. Not sure if development is already occurring or if it's already been determined a pile of Choss, but there's either 10 lifetimes worth of bouldering around Coyote, or a days worth of realizing it's all shit!
By Chas Robles
From: Burque, NM
Jan 2, 2017
Has anyone ever looked at developing the crags across from the San Antonio hot springs? The rock looks pretty amazing with some cool features and cracks. Just wondering why there isn't any climbing there.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 3, 2017
Chas Robles wrote:
Has anyone ever looked at developing the crags across from the San Antonio hot springs? The rock looks pretty amazing with some cool features and cracks. Just wondering why there isn't any climbing there.

I've walked along a bit of the cliffs there a couple times and felt it looked a bit too soft and chossy for my tastes. But that's not to say it shouldn't be climbed or explored if you're feeling adventurous!

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