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Jemez Valley Area

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Area 37 
Battleship Rock 
Gilman Tunnels 
Jemez Cave (a.k.a. Crystal Cave) - CLOSED 
Jemez Falls 
Juno Tower 
Las Conchas 
Ponderosa Bouldering 
Upper East Fork (UEF) 
Rest Day:
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From MP's sister site:

Jemez Valley Area Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 35.7896, -106.687 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 153,629
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Aug 7, 2006
Forecast:
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55°
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82° | 54°
Monday

86° | 54°
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Gateway Rock near the Las Conchas Trailhead

Description 

From Granite to welded tuft to travertine; single pitch, multi-pitch. and bouldering, this area has various types of rock and styles of climbing and bouldering. There is something for everyone here!

Climbing areas throughout this area include: Gilman Tunnels, Battleship Rock, Jemez Cave (a.k.a. Crystal Cave) - CLOSED, Area 37, and Las Conchas.

Getting There 

From Albuquerque start North on 25 to Bernalillo, exiting North at highway 550 (exit # 242, DON'T miss this exit, the next exit does not come for many miles). Follow 550 to San Ysidro and head North on state road 4. All the areas branch from here.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.5 miles from here

455 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',22],['3 Stars',180],['2 Stars',178],['1 Star',68],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',6],['5.7',6],['5.8',24],['5.9',31],['5.10',80],['5.11',86],['5.12',51],['5.13',13],['>=5.14',2],['',0],['<=V1',21],['V2-3',22],['V4-5',37],['V6-7',30],['V8-9',13],['V10-11',10],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Jemez Valley Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Jemez Valley Area:
Spitoon AKA: The Scoop   V3 6A     Boulder, 15'   The Pond : The Scoop Boulder
Garden Wall   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 65'   Las Conchas : Gateway Rock
Cookie Monster   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Upper East Fork (UEF) : Monster Wall
Crucible   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Las Conchas : Cattle Call Wall Area
Bovine Inspiration   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Las Conchas : Cattle Call Wall Area
Eat Mor Chikin   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 50'   Las Conchas : Cattle Call Wall Area
Hollywood Tim   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Las Conchas : The Sponge
Demanda   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Upper East Fork (UEF) : Spaghetti Western Wall Area
Drive By Shooting   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport   Las Conchas : Gateway Rock
We Bulls Wobble   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 40'   Las Conchas : Cattle Call Wall Area
Forest   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Las Conchas : Gateway Rock
Cowboy Up   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Upper East Fork (UEF) : Spaghetti Western Wall Area
Pumping Huecos   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 50'   Las Conchas : The Sponge
Woof Toof Noof Roof   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   Las Conchas : Gateway Rock
Cow Pies For Breakfast   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Las Conchas : Cattle Call Wall Area
Road Rage   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport   Las Conchas : Gateway Rock
Leprosy   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport   Area 37
Werepig   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Upper East Fork (UEF) : Monster Wall
Pegasus   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Upper East Fork (UEF) : Monster Wall
Death Grip   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Las Conchas : Love Shack Area
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Jemez Valley Area

Featured Route For Jemez Valley Area
Rock Climbing Photo: Vaughn on Mario Andretti finish

Mario Andretti V10+ 7C+  New Mexico : Jemez Valley Area : ... : NASCAR Boulder
Same start as NASCAR but continue through cruxy moves to the second blunt and very steep arete, red-point crux comes pulling off of the right hand 3 finger crimp to a good left side pull that is actually terrible because you have nothing to oppose it with....[more]   Browse More Classics in New Mexico

Comments on Jemez Valley Area Add Comment
Show which comments
By Reedrombo
From: Home is where you park it
May 9, 2015
Hey everyone, not a local, just passing through climbing at a few crags. Just passed through the town of Coyote, NM. Not sure if development is already occurring or if it's already been determined a pile of Choss, but there's either 10 lifetimes worth of bouldering around Coyote, or a days worth of realizing it's all shit!
By Chas Robles
From: Burque, NM
Jan 2, 2017
Has anyone ever looked at developing the crags across from the San Antonio hot springs? The rock looks pretty amazing with some cool features and cracks. Just wondering why there isn't any climbing there.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 3, 2017
Chas Robles wrote:
Has anyone ever looked at developing the crags across from the San Antonio hot springs? The rock looks pretty amazing with some cool features and cracks. Just wondering why there isn't any climbing there.

I've walked along a bit of the cliffs there a couple times and felt it looked a bit too soft and chossy for my tastes. But that's not to say it shouldn't be climbed or explored if you're feeling adventurous!

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