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Jemez Mountains and Jemez Valley

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Area 37 
Battleship Rock 
Gilman Tunnels 
Jemez Cave (a.k.a. Crystal Cave) - CLOSED 
Jemez Falls 
Juno Tower 
Las Conchas 
Ponderosa Bouldering 
Upper East Fork (UEF) 
Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Figure Eight Mile Olio
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From MP's sister site:

Jemez Mountains and Jemez Valley Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 35.81619, -106.58255 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 180,713
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Aug 7, 2006
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Gateway Rock near the Las Conchas Trailhead

Description 

From Granite to welded tuft to travertine; single pitch, multi-pitch. and bouldering, this area has various types of rock and styles of climbing and bouldering. There is something for everyone here!

Climbing areas throughout this area include: Gilman Tunnels, Battleship Rock, Jemez Cave (a.k.a. Crystal Cave) - CLOSED, Area 37, and Las Conchas.

Getting There 

From Albuquerque start North on 25 to Bernalillo, exiting North at highway 550 (exit # 242, DON'T miss this exit, the next exit does not come for many miles). Follow 550 to San Ysidro and head North on state road 4. All the areas branch from here.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.5 miles from here

459 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',23],['3 Stars',178],['2 Stars',187],['1 Star',64],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',6],['5.7',6],['5.8',24],['5.9',32],['5.10',82],['5.11',87],['5.12',51],['5.13',13],['>=5.14',2],['',0],['<=V1',21],['V2-3',22],['V4-5',37],['V6-7',30],['V8-9',13],['V10-11',10],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Jemez Mountains and Jemez Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Jemez Mountains and Jemez Valley:
Cookie Monster   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Upper East Fork (UEF) : Monster Wall
Crucible   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Las Conchas : Cattle Call Wall Area
Crucial Taunt   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 60'   Las Conchas : Easy Bake Alcove
Bovine Inspiration   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Las Conchas : Cattle Call Wall Area
Demanda   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Upper East Fork (UEF) : Spaghetti Western Wall
Hollywood Tim   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Las Conchas : The Sponge
Eat Mor Chikin   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 50'   Las Conchas : Cattle Call Wall Area
We Bulls Wobble   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 40'   Las Conchas : Cattle Call Wall Area
Drive By Shooting   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport   Las Conchas : Gateway Rock
Forest   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 62'   Las Conchas : Gateway Rock
Pumping Huecos   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 50'   Las Conchas : The Sponge
Cowboy Up   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Upper East Fork (UEF) : Spaghetti Western Wall
Woof Toof Noof Roof   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   Las Conchas : Gateway Rock
Cow Pies For Breakfast   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Las Conchas : Cattle Call Wall Area
General Mayhem   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 30'   Las Conchas : Gateway Rock
Road Rage   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport   Las Conchas : Gateway Rock
Leprosy   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 33'   Area 37
Werepig   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Upper East Fork (UEF) : Monster Wall
Pegasus   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Upper East Fork (UEF) : Monster Wall
Death Grip   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Las Conchas : Love Shack Area
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Jemez Mountains and Jemez Valley

Featured Route For Jemez Mountains and Jemez Valley
Rock Climbing Photo: King for a Day: starts on the lowest feature with ...

King for a Day V6+ 7A  New Mexico : Jemez Mountains and Jemez V... : ... : King for a Day Boulder
Start sitting at the bottom of an overhung vertical rail/dihedral and move upwards on the sloping rail using lots of body tension. Transfer right to a second rail as the holds get bigger and the moves get longer. Top out right of the big water spout....[more]   Browse More Classics in New Mexico

Comments on Jemez Mountains and Jemez Valley Add Comment
Show which comments
By Reedrombo
From: Home is where you park it
May 9, 2015
Hey everyone, not a local, just passing through climbing at a few crags. Just passed through the town of Coyote, NM. Not sure if development is already occurring or if it's already been determined a pile of Choss, but there's either 10 lifetimes worth of bouldering around Coyote, or a days worth of realizing it's all shit!
By Chas Robles
From: Burque, NM
Jan 2, 2017
Has anyone ever looked at developing the crags across from the San Antonio hot springs? The rock looks pretty amazing with some cool features and cracks. Just wondering why there isn't any climbing there.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 3, 2017
Chas Robles wrote:
Has anyone ever looked at developing the crags across from the San Antonio hot springs? The rock looks pretty amazing with some cool features and cracks. Just wondering why there isn't any climbing there.

I've walked along a bit of the cliffs there a couple times and felt it looked a bit too soft and chossy for my tastes. But that's not to say it shouldn't be climbed or explored if you're feeling adventurous!

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