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Jelly Belly 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tim Laughlin, John Bald
Page Views: 101
Submitted By: Muscrat on Jun 25, 2015

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Description 

This could be a classic, but for a few sections of less than stellar rock, and a really ugly walk off one would rather forget. This is the longest and straightest route on the belly. The upper pitches are gear belays.
P1) Starting about 10' to the right of Boris, look for a shallow scoop with minimal pro above which you will pass 2 bolts and tend left along the underside of the bulge of the 'belly'. Find your way to a large ledge, shared by 5 routes and 2 sets of anchors. Belay from the upper right set of chains.
P2) Tend left and up past 2 more bolts, then right into the base of the crack (can be hard to see from the second bolt). Build a belay when you are on the left side of the belly button itself.
P3) Staying pretty straight up along the edge of the 'button', continue up the crack to the ledge at the base of a left facing dihedral/corner.
P4) Chase this fun crack up to the summit of the crag.

Location 

10' right of 'Boris'. If you stand back from the crag you can spy the bolts of the first pitch, and where it heads. The walk off is pretty terrible, loose talus/scree to climbers right.

Protection 

Double rack .3-3". Offset nuts, slings, tricams are all useful.


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By Muscrat
Administrator
Jun 25, 2015

The walk off "pretty terrible"? Nothing pretty about it, bring shoes!

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