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Jeff Loves Eileen 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

Type:  Trad, TR, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
Page Views: 2,469
Submitted By: Jeff Welch on Jun 5, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Leading up JLE, Rock was MUCH smoother than I expe...


Jeff Loves Eileen is a very popular beginner climb on a slabby face - probably the most popular route at Little Falls. The route follows a diagonal crack that climbs more like a face climb than a crack climb. Good hands in the crack and small edges for feet are the name of the game, with a few jams near the top. A good choice for new climbers, or for a first trad lead.


The first large slab to the left of the large metal tower is the Jeff Loves Eileen face. The graffiti for which it's named is mostly obscured now. The face is split by two prominent, diagonal cracks; Jeff Loves Eileen is the one on the right, Goat Crack (5.2) is on the left.


TR using VERY long webbing/static, or better, use the many available gear placements. The route is G rated on lead.

Photos of Jeff Loves Eileen Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Coaching and belaying on Jeff Loves Eileen
Coaching and belaying on Jeff Loves Eileen
Rock Climbing Photo: Classic Lieback
Classic Lieback
Rock Climbing Photo: John Ciccone leading Jeff Loves Eileen on a wet da...
John Ciccone leading Jeff Loves Eileen on a wet da...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nick showing good form
Nick showing good form

Comments on Jeff Loves Eileen Add Comment
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By Lee Smith
Oct 20, 2006

I used my 50 meter 8MM static line for a general anchor to the top of Jeff Loves Eileen face. With the rope doubled from the nearest large tree there was plenty left over. Watch out for sharp edges. Use directionals to position the anchor over your chosen climb.
By Nathan Stokes
Nov 14, 2011

There are a couple of bomber nut and tri cam placements right on the edge for an anchor at the top of the crack. Or if you want the anchor in the center of the climb a #2 Camalot, an offset nut and a yellow alien will make a good 3 point anchor with a standard length cordalette.
By J. Serpico
From: Saratoga County, NY
Apr 21, 2014
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

No way this is a 5.4. I think people rate these based on top roping. Gear is great, angle is low, but the moves near the top are harder than 5.4. Definitely a good lead. Also, the official guide for the area rates it at 5.6.
By Bruce Monroe
May 11, 2014

The original guidebook lists this climb at 5.4. It is generally recognized now that the crux at the top is 5.5 thus making the climb 5.5. The gear is excellent and as of May 2014 there are bolted anchors at the top.
By Seth Largo
From: Kearney, Nebraska
Mar 15, 2016

The final move or two are quick, but they're just as difficult as many a verified 5.6 move I've done elsewhere. Easily protected, though. It was my friend's first gear lead and first solo . . . on the same day.
By Nolan Huther
From: Clarkson University
May 12, 2017

The best easy route on Moss Island and arguably the best lead. I must've climbed it on at least a dozen different occasions.

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