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Jeepers Creepers 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13 [details]
FA: FA: Pat Palmieri, Jerry Cole, FFA: Dave Black, Kent Jameson (5/83)
Season: late spring through early fall
Page Views: 429
Submitted By: Colby Wayment on Sep 19, 2010

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Description 

If there is a more apt name for a route, I have not seen it. The guide book description (Dave Robb) is spot on as well. "This route epitomizes the paradox of Ogden trad climbing: a long strenuous approach to a route of questionable quality, bad and/or tricky gear placements, rattely fixed pins, loose rock, solitude, and a lot of cussing. Yet, for some unexplained reason, when a few days have gone by you think back and say, 'Wow, what a great route.'"

Pitch 1: Three ways to go. I went up the middle variation through the small roof handcrack 20 feet up (5.9). Follow crack for another 20-30 feet and make a face traverse left over to the pin anchor. Up until the traverse, you can sew it up. The rock is questionabl (everywhere on this wall) so use extreme prudence. The left variation that climbs directly to the anchor looks fairly stout and not that protectable. ~50 feet for this pitch

Anchor: consists of three old, really small pins and really old webbing. Back it up with a grey (.00) metolius cam (as this is probably more bomber than the three pins combined). Nuts don't really work here either and the only place you can get a bigger cam is in the roof ~10 feet above the anchor.

Pitch 2: Up easy, but really loose face to the roof (crux). Build a solid nest of cams because the belay probably won't hold a factor 2 fall and the moves over the roof are really hard, tricky and strenuous. A somewhat solid yellow metolius (#2?) finger cam can be found under the second pin. I doubt either pin would hold if you fell on them. After pulling the roof, follow the crack which diagnols to the right (5.9ish), to a large, obvious ledge. There is no anchor here. ~100 feet for this pitch.

Descent: rap or downclimb off to the west. If planning to rap, you'll need some sacrificial webbing and two ropes. If planning to downclimb, you may want to scope out the small ridge to the right of the wall you're climbing beforehand.

Gear: 1 set of cams .33 inches (grey metolius) to 2.5 inches (yellow camalot). doubles from 1.75 inches (purple camalot) to 2.5 inches. 1 set of nuts and plenty of slings and draws.

Location: Located deep in Jumpoff Canyon (between Macabre wall and Mezzanines) on the South side. Basically, park at the trailhead across the street from the Catholic church on Harrison/Mt. Road. Follow trails from there to the Bonneville Shoreline. Continue walking up the canyon mostly following the drainage. At a point, the drainage ends and you would have to do 3rd/4th class scrambling to get up into the upper reaches of the canyon. The route is just to the right of this impass. Look for the large roof ~60 feet up. The route pulls the left most part of this roof and the anchors are located almost out-of-sight 10feet below.

Other: This route would be ideal to save for the hottest days of summer since it faces north, is located in a grove of larger trees, and is surrounded by other large walls. This thing probably never sees the sun. Solitude.


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By Colby Wayment
From: Ogden, UT
Sep 20, 2010

I rated it PG13 not because it has tricky protection or long runouts, but because the climbers doing it, both leader and follower, better be competent 5.10 trad climbers. The Pins are untrustworthy! A grey (.00) metolius is needed to back up the first anchor. Also, the old Ogden guide indicates that it is a 3 pitch route. So, perhaps you can do some exploring? Why not? You better get in all the climbing you can in after hiking so far, as there are no other routes.
By Derek DeBruin
Jan 19, 2016

For info on other routes in Jumpoff Canyon, I've composed a mini-guide.

drive.google.com/file/d/0B6fmN...

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