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Jedi Mind Tricks 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Tim Maloney and Leo Henson (TR), Jeremy Nelson and Rob Tomczak (lead)
Page Views: 2,119
Submitted By: Andrew Ryder on May 9, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Sean Sussman on "Jedi Mind Tricks" (5.10...


Follow the dihedral up to a bulge/roof (careful of some loose-looking rock.) Traverse right underneath the bulge and ascend a small corner (crux), then climb a long way on easy terrain to reach the anchors. Be sure to top it out and take in the scene.


Rack up, then scramble up the gully to the right of Barney Rubble about 15-20 feet and walk right across the narrow ledge to reach the base of the route.


12 bolts to chains. A 60m rope barely reaches - knot your rope before lowering or rappelling.

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By tim maloney
Apr 2, 2008

Leo Henson and I toproped this rig long time back, should have been a couple of bolts on top. I remember this being a worthy route, glad you guys bolted it up.
By Todd Savoy
From: Flagstaff
Jul 29, 2009
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Decent route and great for a warm up due to the easy ground following the crux. I would suggest hiding in the cave while pulling your rope off the anchors because of the large amount of choss on this route. A softball sized chunk nearly took my head off today.
By -Jeremy Nelson
Nov 14, 2010

Tim and Todd, Thanks for submitting the info on the route, we thought it was in the 10's but not sure exactly, good to see some consensus. It is best after the crux to a knee lock rest and reach up and clip the bolt. It is cruiser after that but still requires attention. Rob and I were glad to bolt it, lead it, while D Bloom was around the corner. A fun lead.
By SHOPE Christian
From: Corvallis, OR
Mar 20, 2013

Pretty weird crux which involves traversing under a slight overhang and gaining a ledge and then getting back left onto the overhang and up.

Optional bolts on the right would probably create a lot of rope drag and lessen the grade to 5.9.

Moderate climbers may have trouble following. Great hang out on top though!

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