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Zippy Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
And Grooving Was Grooving  T 
Black Stallion, The S 
Canalizo T 
Die Young T 
Does Royalty Give Head? T 
Don't T 
Free As Can Be T 
Gargoyle T 
Hans Solo T 
J.B. Goes to J.T. TR 
Jedi Master T 
Moustache, The T 
Mr. Maxle S 
New Hamster S 
Shongo Pavi T 
Wild Dream T 

Jedi Master 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Alan Nelson, 1982
Page Views: 299
Submitted By: C Miller on Oct 4, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: "Jedi Master". Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

Make difficult moves into the left-slanting flared crack that starts above the ground and continue above as it gets lower-angled and easier. It's possible to traverse in from the right if the bottom is too difficult.

Originally rated 5.10c, but the start has gotten harder over the years due to erosion at the base of the route.

Protection 

Gear to 2.5"


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By Obi
From: Portland, OR
Nov 5, 2007

An alternative is to approach the crack by traversing from the right, by the base of Hans Solo. A few unprotected slab moves gains entry into the crack.

Although the moves aren't necessarily super hard, the blind tricky gear placements adds a lot of "spice" to this climb (if approached from the right, but probably true for the direct start).
By Adam Kimmerly
Nov 5, 2007
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13

The route is now eroded enough at the base to require a moderate sized cheat stone to maintain a 5.10c rating. I don't think it would even be possible to start the route without it. As Obi mentions, traversing in from the right is easier and makes the route 5.9 or so. The "R" is warranted for the extremely flaring, shallow, blind gear placements and the crumbly/seldom traveled rock. Fortunately the route isn't very long, the difficulties are near the bottom, and the ground below is very soft sand which pushes the danger rating (IMHO) back down to "PG-13". You're not likely to get seriously injured on this thing even if your gear blows.

Interesting climbing though, and fun. More length would earn this route more than a single star and also a stout "R" rating.