Jebel el Kest and Jebel Taskra North, Anti-Atlas Rock Climbing
Emma Alsford on the descent 'ridge scramble' along...
A fantastic 'winter sun' trad climbing destination. Mountainous but with a 'cragging' feel. Varied routes on predominantly solid quartzite. Approach times from 2 minutes to an hour. Single pitch to multi 8+pitches long. All aspects though many north faces (a relief at times for escape from the hot Moroccan sun!). Descents mainly by easy scrambling off the back of peaks, though many abseil descents on the shorter routes.
Developed mainly by Brits and originally on the south side of Jebel el Kest - see Claude Davies' guidebook Moroccan Anti-Atlas, from 1991 onwards, but activity since 2007 has taken place mainly on the north side and on Jebel Taskra north (at a rate of knots!) - Still plenty of scope for new routing, with many of the routes also not having seen repeats as yet. An area still in its infancy...
Must do routes: Tusker 5.6, Sisters of Mercy 5.8, Voyage of the Beagle 5.9, La Linea D'Ombra 5.9, Em's Cleft 5.9, To Teo 5.9, Black Beauty 5.10a, Firesword 5.10a, Shruikan 5.10b, Titan's Chimney 5.10b, Golden Compass 5.10b, Sungold 5.10c, Leaving Las Vegas 5.10c, Crackerjack 5.10d, Arctic Monkey 5.10d, Orgasmatron 5.11a, The Mighty Logan 5.11b, Hammer Finger 5.12a.
Best place to stay is the Kasbah Tizourgane near Ida Ougnidif - all areas are between 10-40 minutes from here. Email Malika at firstname.lastname@example.org for booking. Only other places to stay at present are in Tafraoute, though this is up to a good hour from the 6 main areas. Only place which serves alcohol is les amandiers hotel in Tafraoute, though it is possible to stock up in duty free before departing (or in Agadir) and take this to the Kasbah, who are most accommodating about the use of alcohol (please respect this).
All information for routes available in the brand new definitive guidebook Morocco Rock, detailing around 1,000 climbs from 5.3 to 5.12b - see moroccorock.com
(postage to the states £10).
Fly to Agadir and hire a car (essential) from the airport. Detailed maps in Morocco Rock guidebook.
Climbing Season For the Africa area.
Weather station 8.5 miles from here
5 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Jebel el Kest and Jebel Taskra North, Anti-Atlas
Firesword 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Africa
: ... : Samazar Valley
A nicely sustained climb throughout with no real cruxes. Really varied and on immaculate quartzite. Guidebook description:Another superlative route with four varied, immaculate pitches up cracks and corners in the golden pillar. A fine companion to Brisingr, starting as for that route.1 60m 5b Climb up to the small tree to gain the slab on the right. Some tricky moves gain and climb the crack in the orange side wall of Brisingr, which leads to a final steep move up a flake to gain ledges at t...[more] Browse More Classics in International
|Comments on Jebel el Kest and Jebel Taskra North, Anti-Atlas
Oct 25, 2012
A gorgeous looking guidebook! Great photos, nice photo route overlays. An intro. essay by Chris Bonington himself. Daydream fodder - the whole package.