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c. Frog's Head - the Arch
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YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Art Gran, Phil Jacobus, and John Hudson 1960. FFA: Dick Williams 1964
Page Views: 2,502
Submitted By: Ross Fadely on Jan 11, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (58)
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Pulling the roof


A classic roof problem that serves as a great introduction to harder roofs.

P1: Climb the small left-facing corner to a small stance. Surf right then back left through a deceptive little sequence. Head up the main left-facing corner to the roof. Pull over this (crux) to arrive at the fixed rap anchor.

There is a second and third pitch but most rap here.


On a face 40 feet right of Maria and 15 feet left of Sixish, below left side of the obvious roof.


Standard rack, microcams or slider nuts may be helpful.

Photos of Jean Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The route wanders in and out of the left facing co...
BETA PHOTO: The route wanders in and out of the left facing co...
Rock Climbing Photo: Contemplating the roof
Contemplating the roof
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling the roof.
Pulling the roof.

Comments on Jean Add Comment
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By JoeLeiper
Feb 19, 2008

Worthwhile, quite strenuous. Largely ignored. I did this with a friend who weighed almost 200 lbs. He couldn't do the roof and I lowered him with my head braced against a tree, on a waist belay, shirtless. Nice slow rope burn.
By BrianRH
From: Jersey City, NJ
Mar 24, 2011

first pitch is nice; thoughtful 5.7 or so to the roof. make sure your gear under the roof is solid as the moves over the roof are committing. reminds me a bit of the roof on Birdcage.
By IJMayer
From: Bellingham, WA
Aug 4, 2011

I just tried this tonight in the dark and took the whipper! The roof is reachy for me at 5'5", but I probably missed a foothold..
By divnamite
From: New York, NY
Jun 23, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Interesting climb, worth doing. It's a strenous roof, good intro to harder roof climbs at the Gunks.
By Cheyenne Wills
Dec 5, 2014

There is a knee lock mid way through the roof moves that allows you to have a full no-hands rest. I always liked the look on the face of a belayer when reaching back with both hands to chalk up
By rgold
From: Poughkeepsie, NY
Aug 7, 2016

Jean is left of Sixish, not right of Sixish as the current location text says.

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