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Another Vertical Nightmare S,TR 
Cheeky Bastard S 
Figure Four S 
Finger Flake S,TR 
Jaws T 
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Memento Mori S 
Memento Mori Direct S 
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Nose, The S,TR 
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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 227
Submitted By: Floyd Hayes on Apr 22, 2014

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Floyd Hayes leading the short crux of Jaws 5.9. Ph...


Climb the detached pillar left of Cheeky Bastard, then traverse right to the top of Cheeky Bastard. The climbing is easy with a short, well protected crux. EDIT: Steve Weyand reports there is now a two-bolt anchor, which CrimperE6 subsequently removed.


Starts at base of the small detached pillar about 20 feet left of Cheeky Bastard.


1 set of cams up to 4". Take long slings to set up an anchor at the top or to protect the downclimbing traverse to the anchor of Cheeky Bastard.

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By Floyd Hayes
Apr 22, 2014

After forgetting to pull a cam off Cheeky Bastard while rappelling, I decided to climb this obvious, easy-looking route to quickly retrieve it. It's probably been climbed before, but it's not in "Locals Guide to Rock Climbs of Northeast California" and I couldn't find it online. I climbed it with Cheri Ermshar on March 15, 2014.
By Steve Weyand
From: Redding
Jan 22, 2015

This route now has a 2 bolt anchor and chains. The position of the anchor allows for some top rope variations to the right of Jaws ranging between 5.7-5.9.
By Crimper E6
From: cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
Apr 26, 2015

Ok, Felt like 5.7ish on the solo. Sorry, i took down the anchor to use for another route as i didnt feel the arete left of cheeky was worth bolting..

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