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Sandstonia
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Jaws of Life 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Eric Horst, Charles Ganote
Page Views: 810
Submitted By: Chadd Sechler on Sep 12, 2012

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Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Begin by climbing up the big chimney near the tornado feature. Pass through the "jaws" (pulling through a roof) and up to a ledge. Finish up the face all the way to the anchors.

Location 

To the right of Climb Free or Die

Protection 

10 bolts plus anchor.


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By Evan Ippolito
From: Brevard, NC
Sep 18, 2016

Does anybody have any photos of this route? Or maybe a more elaborate description? I climbed a really fun route at the New in the Sandstonia area and I'm almost 99% positive this was it, but it definitely did not seem like a 5.11. I would have rated it at around 5.7 or so, which makes me think I was on a different route.
By ShockSLL
Administrator
From: Charlotte, NC
Sep 19, 2016

Maybe you did Butterfly flake?
By Evan Ippolito
From: Brevard, NC
Sep 21, 2016

No I identified the rest of the climbs I did there, including butterfly flake. The one I'm looking for was around the corner directly before "The Decameron." There was a decent sized boulder on the other side of the trail. The climb starts through an offwidth chimney that widens big enough to sit in and wedge across. You step out of the chimney to a giant ledge, then it's a face climb to another decent ledge. Climb up over a roof and finish on a face.
By Derek Glover
Sep 21, 2016

Sounds like Plumbers Crack. Right of Butterfly Flake
By Evan Ippolito
From: Brevard, NC
Sep 27, 2016

Definitely wasn't "Plumber's Crack" I'm gonna see if I can get some pictures from a friend and maybe then we can get it sorted out.
By Adam Byrd
From: Morgantown, WV
Oct 3, 2016

Evan I did the same thing, going up the chimney and stepping onto the ledge. We figured that following the bolts up the thin face and pulling the overhang was the actual route and in line with the rating.
By Matt Powers
From: Madison, VA
Oct 10, 2016

It's been a while since I was on it, but what Adam said sounds right. You step left onto the face from the chimney, pass through the "Jaws", then angle up and left a little bit. Then you pull the roof, following the bolt line. If I remember correctly it was pretty casual except for the roof, which was a stout 11a/b move.