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Whale's Tail
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Jason's Argonaut S 
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Rose, The S 

Jason's Argonaut 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,905
Submitted By: Kevin Wood on Jun 17, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (58)
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BETA PHOTO: The climbers on the 'The Rose' and 'Jason's Argona...

Reopened after flood damage! MORE INFO >>>


This route is the middle of the three at Whale's Tail. Climb up easy ledges to the first clip. Right after the second bolt is the crux, smear and shift your weight and body (with your right hand in a nice undercling) over to the left with a crimper for your hand. This is a long reach. After this move, cruise over 5.7/.8 terrain to the two bolt anchors. This route seems soft for the grade and easier than the route to the right.


Whale's Tail is located southwest-ish of the lakes and, if coming from the parking lot near US 24, is reached before the Whale Wall. This is the middle route.


7 quickdraws and a two bolt anchor w/ rap rings.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 5, 2016
By Stewart M. Green
Jun 23, 2008

This has gotten lots easier. The last time I climbed it I thought it was borderline 5.9, maybe solid 5.9 for 2 moves for a short person.
By KateC
Sep 30, 2008

Yep. We climbed this last weekend and it felt easier than the bottom of the 9 to the right. Definitely a 1-2 move crux, but a fun climb nonetheless.
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Oct 1, 2008

I've led this about three times and agree that it is comparable with [Pockets a' Plenty]. However, I think if you stick to the right instead of crossing over to the left down below the crux it may cross over into the RRCOS .10- range...IMO.
By rudy
From: arlington, va
Oct 29, 2008

You people are all crazy. This route was way hard. I had to teach my boyfriend to climb so he would lead it for me. Slab people are such a bunch of sandbaggers, no offense. My hostility is purely bred of envy - but jeesh.
By Andrew Gram
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 18, 2009

A few moves are much harder than the 9 to the right.
By Ben Burnett
From: Colorado
Oct 3, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I would say it is height-dependent. If you can do the big reach above the crux bolt, then it is easier than the 9. If not, then the lower step across falls in the 10 range. Good, clean rock and fun moves.
By Marley Hodgson
From: CO
Mar 8, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Climbed it 3/6/10 and the guy before us busted off the crimper for the left hand at the crux. It is now of little use other than perhaps balance. So the crux may be back in the 10a range. Still very fun couple of moves.
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 2, 2011

You can actually go left around the 2nd bolt and make it a bit easier.
By Michael Neuder
From: Colorado Springs, Co
Apr 17, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I'd call it a low ten for shorter people. The move of the undercling is pretty big and really cool.
By teece303
From: Highlands Ranch, CO
Apr 27, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is a fun route, and the crux is well-protected, but it is glass smooth for a second right there and for me at 5' 7" very much in the 5.10 ratings.

After bolt three, it's over.
By cslice
From: Longmont, CO
Apr 12, 2014

Anchor is still missing. Very frustrating...have to be creative to get your gear back. April 11, 2014.
By Isaac H.
Jul 10, 2014

Anchors are back. They have been for a couple months now, but I just figured I'd post it. Thanks whoever put them in.
By Stewart M. Green
Jul 19, 2014

I replaced the missing anchors and bolts at the Whale's Tail and in the rest of the park with Collin Powers with the CMS. Thanks to the Colorado Mountain Club for generously donating the replacement bolt hangers!
By S.Stelli
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 8, 2015

There is a 2ft by 2ft flake of rock, about 2-3 inches thick, that is just after the crux of this route. It's completely hollow behind the flake - so if one was to pull out on it, I'm sure it would bust free and shower large rock chunks down. For reference, it's about two bolts down from the anchors in a really easy section of the climb.
By Matt Chezem
Apr 7, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Definitely a 10a for me. At 5'7", the crux was a reach for sure. Perfectly protected though.
By Byrne
Oct 5, 2016

The bolt hanger at the crux is a spinner. I had no tools with me to tighten up the nut, but I can see why that hanger is spinning as it appears that a lot of people take a pendulum fall on that bolt.

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