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Japanese Terraces 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Hannibal, Montague '79
Page Views: 4,618
Submitted By: Craig Martin on Sep 28, 2006

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Jon on lead: Japanese Terrace

  • Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. MORE INFO >>>
  • Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This enjoyable route follows a dihedral system to the left of the standard Pentapitch and finishes 30 feet above the last pitch anchor of Pentapitch at a large dead tree with slings.

    Pitch 1: First pitch of Pentapitch or Neuromancer to the big ledge.

    Pitch 2: Start on the far left of the big ledge and climb up a left facing dihedral. This pitch can be broken into two. Belay on the giant ledge shared with Pentapitch. 160' 5.7.

    Pitch 3: From the far left edge of the giant ledge start up a left facing dihedral, pull through a bulge or two and belay at a large pine tree on a ledge strewn with boulders. 100' 5.7.

    Pitch 4: Continue up yet another left facing dihedral. This is the best pitch with nice hands jams and laybacks. Very exposed near the top as you make a few moves to the right over a roof. Belay at a large dead tree with slings. This is the same pitch as the last on Coalpit Connection. 120' 5.8+.

    Descent: Rappel Pentapitch.

    Location 

    This route starts from the ledge at the top of the 1st pitch of Pentapitch in a left facing dihedral.

    Protection 

    Standard Rack, doubles on TCU's is nice, but not mandatory.


    Photos of Japanese Terraces Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: The last pitch is surprisingly good! Super fun wit...
    The last pitch is surprisingly good! Super fun wit...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Leading Japanese Terraces
    Leading Japanese Terraces

    Comments on Japanese Terraces Add Comment
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    By Andrew Gram
    Administrator
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Sep 9, 2012
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    I thought this was pretty nebulous until the last really cool dihedral section. Didn't seem to match up all that well with the topo in the Ruckman guide.

    We climbed P1 of Pentapitch. From there, with a 70 meter went to near the end of the rope up the easy dihedral just left of Pentaptich. Belay was easy to set on a small ledge with a tree off to the side and a crack for a directional well above the huge ledge in the middle of P3 of Pentapitch. Forgettable 5.5ish pitch with some loose rock. After that, a long pitch up a pretty wild feeling dihedral and steep face to a tree just above the last anchor on pentapitch. Hard, strenuous, wild 5.8 and really worth doing after the blah opening.
    By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Jun 25, 2015
    rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

    Somehow got off route and totally missed the second pitch (third from ground) and ended up just around the corner from Pentapitch. Got back on route after a thrutchy corner that I think was not the correct way. The final pitch is a beast. Very strenuous and awkward. Bring your A game and expect non-stop 5.8+ moves for about half of the pitch.

    IMPORTANT: The dead tree at the top of the route is NOT safe to use anymore. It is rocking back and forth and is going to come off the wall very soon. I carved an X into the trunk. I saw several slings on it which I removed. A gear anchor is very easy to set up at the same spot with some hand size cams. From there it is an easy scramble to the anchors at the top of Pentapitch.
    By Kyle Goupil
    From: SLC, UT
    Sep 18, 2016

    The last pitch on this route is incredible! I would highly recommend people to climb this just for the last pitch.

    Agreed that its best to scramble over to the anchors for Pentapitch and rap down.

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