REI Community
search
Advanced
Uncensored Wall
Select Route:
Japanese Pixelated Genitals T 

Japanese Pixelated Genitals 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: FFA: Shino Jomoto
Page Views: 339
Submitted By: Brandon Gottung on Jan 7, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Fai approaching the chain

Description 

Japanese Pixelated Genitals is a fun mix of hand-jamming and steep jug-hauling. As long as you avoid rope-drag, this pitch is phenomenal.

Start with a easy climbing up to a leftward traverse below the roof to the prominent left-facing handcrack corner, out a second roof and up to the dead horizontal final roof. The anchors are just past the lip.

This route generally requires a lead, lower and follow tactic since cleaning it would be difficult and rough on the rope.

There is a second anchor above on a ledge that is used to access the second pitch (2nd pitch is 5.12).

Location 

In the middle of the main area on the ledge that must be scrambled up to.

Protection 

Double set .3 to #3. Two bolts. Lots of runners! Extend everything down low to avoid rope drag.


Photos of Japanese Pixelated Genitals Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ryan Doe on the 2nd roof on the 2nd ascent of Japa...
Ryan Doe on the 2nd roof on the 2nd ascent of Japa...

Comments on Japanese Pixelated Genitals Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tao Techakanon
From: Bangkok, Thailand
3 days ago
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

belayed and followed Raul on the second pitch. It's fully bolted and felt much harder than a 5.12

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · People · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About