Japanese Pixelated Genitals
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Ryan Doe on the 2nd roof on the 2nd ascent of Japa...
Japanese Pixelated Genitals is a fun mix of hand-jamming and steep jug-hauling. As long as you avoid rope-drag, this pitch is phenomenal.
Start with a easy climbing up to a leftward traverse below the roof to the prominent left-facing handcrack corner, out a second roof and up to the dead horizontal final roof. The anchors are just past the lip.
This route generally requires a lead, lower and follow tactic since cleaning it would be difficult and rough on the rope.
There is a second anchor above on a ledge that is used to access the second pitch (2nd pitch is 5.12).
In the middle of the main area on the ledge that must be scrambled up to.
Double set .3 to #3. Two bolts. Lots of runners! Extend everything down low to avoid rope drag.