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Japanese Gardens T 
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Japanese Gardens 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Lowell Anderson, Dave Page, Jim Stoddard. FFA: Terry Lien, Jon Nelson
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 13,589
Submitted By: jonah on Jan 27, 2006

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aaron on Japanese gardens.

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To the left of Godzilla, City Park, etc. Starts with a fun 10a section in a short left-facing dihedral. Trends right then back left and up a wide crack (protects great with a #3 Camalot). This "pitch" ends at chains, but the fun continues if you keep going to the next anchor. The wide section continues, with high steps and laybacking protected by a #4 Camalot. Two cruxes remain where the crack peters down to fingers then hands. Finish on a finger crack with big moves off edges and locks by stemming and traversing to the right. The route goes up another 2 pitches from here, but I'm embarassed to say I haven't done them. Please add comments below if you have - I just wanted to get the ball rolling with this description.


Doubles through #2 Camalots, single #3 and #4, some small nuts. Some people (Tripplet) lead the first pitch on about 6 pieces. Whatever. You can run TR laps if you hang a 70m rope, but make SURE you place a directional (#1 Metolius) to the left of the anchor or the rope will get completely jammed in the crack and you won't be able to move it at all.

Photos of Japanese Gardens Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jens Holsten on a perfect winter day on the perfec...
Jens Holsten on a perfect winter day on the perfec...
Rock Climbing Photo: Posted up under the first crux fingers section.
Posted up under the first crux fingers section.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up the first pitch of Japanese Gardens.  T...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the first pitch of Japanese Gardens. T...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling into the good stance below the large flake...
Pulling into the good stance below the large flake...
Rock Climbing Photo: starting the 2nd crux on pitch 1
starting the 2nd crux on pitch 1
Rock Climbing Photo: pitch 3
pitch 3
Rock Climbing Photo: Japanese gradens pitch 1
Japanese gradens pitch 1

Comments on Japanese Gardens Add Comment
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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jul 2, 2006

You can do just the first section at 5.9+ and stop at the chains. A small TCU is useful to protect the last move before the chains. This is a fine, short outing requiring a bunch of different techniques. For protection bring one set of cams TCUs-#4 Camalot and some nuts.
By Drewsky
Jul 3, 2008

Above the first pitch, there are 3 more pitches of excellent 5.11 climbing:

Pitch 2: A short jam/lieback that gets progressively harder until the last move (.11b). Ledgy climbing leads to an anchor up and right.

Pitch 3: Step left and enter a flare with a fingercrack (.11a). Physical jamming leads up around the left side of a roof and up a slab to a belay.

Pitch 4: A slab leads to steeper slab climbing through left-facing corners and arches (.11c). Easier (.9) slabs then lead to a belay at the top of the wall.

As of '07 they are squeaky clean and climbable again thanks to mammoth cleaning efforts by Ben and Ryan. Kudos!

This climb, complete to the top of the wall, is absolutely *****!
By Lisa Montgomery
From: Golden, CO
Jul 12, 2009

We were able to rap from the top of P3 using a 70m rope (one 60m may work too).
By Eric8
From: Maynard, MA
Mar 6, 2010
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

A 60m will only work if you stop at the hanging belay half way up pitch 1.
By Douglas T
Jul 5, 2013

The long pitch 1 (to the 2nd anchor) is my favorite single pitch of climbing anywhere, requiring wide cracks to finger/pin scars and solid face climbing. The gear is great too.
By Jon Todorovich
Jun 18, 2016

I'll comment on pitches 3 & 4 since they don't get climbed often, but really deserve the traffic.
Pitch 3 (11a): is very similar to Slow Children and every bit as good -- Perfect splitter thin crack in a straight-in corner. Gear beta is the exact same as Slow. Crux moves even protect with a purple mastercam (just like Slow Children). Bring a green c4 to protect the move entering the finger crack.
Pitch 4 (11d): has some slabby moves followed by a finger crack to an left-arching seam. The seam (and crux) are protected by a mix of bolts and pins. The hardest moves have a bolt at waist to chest height. However, because of the arching nature of the route, you can't cheat through these moves. Be ready to crank hard through the slabby boulder problem. Over the last couple of years I have periodically brushed the route to keep it clean so it will always be safe and straight-forward. The route dries quickly after rain. One thing to beware of however, is a crux sloper seeps through the winter months.
After finishing the route, it is easiest to rap TPMV to the ground -- straight down.

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