|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 200'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]|
|FA:||Lowell Anderson, Dave Page, Jim Stoddard. FFA: Terry Lien, Jon Nelson|
|Season:||Spring, Summer, Fall|
|Submitted By:||jonah on Jan 27, 2006|
|Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Japanese Gardens||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Andy Laakmann
From: Bend, OR
Jul 2, 2006
|You can do just the first section at 5.9+ and stop at the chains. A small TCU is useful to protect the last move before the chains. This is a fine, short outing requiring a bunch of different techniques. For protection bring one set of cams TCUs-#4 Camalot and some nuts.|
Jul 3, 2008
Above the first pitch, there are 3 more pitches of excellent 5.11 climbing:
Pitch 2: A short jam/lieback that gets progressively harder until the last move (.11b). Ledgy climbing leads to an anchor up and right.
Pitch 3: Step left and enter a flare with a fingercrack (.11a). Physical jamming leads up around the left side of a roof and up a slab to a belay.
Pitch 4: A slab leads to steeper slab climbing through left-facing corners and arches (.11c). Easier (.9) slabs then lead to a belay at the top of the wall.
As of '07 they are squeaky clean and climbable again thanks to mammoth cleaning efforts by Ben and Ryan. Kudos!
This climb, complete to the top of the wall, is absolutely *****!
By Lisa Montgomery
From: Golden, CO
Jul 12, 2009
|We were able to rap from the top of P3 using a 70m rope (one 60m may work too).|
From: Maynard, MA
Mar 6, 2010
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
|A 60m will only work if you stop at the hanging belay half way up pitch 1.|
By Douglas T
Jul 5, 2013
|The long pitch 1 (to the 2nd anchor) is my favorite single pitch of climbing anywhere, requiring wide cracks to finger/pin scars and solid face climbing. The gear is great too.|
By Jon Todorovich
Jun 18, 2016
I'll comment on pitches 3 & 4 since they don't get climbed often, but really deserve the traffic.
Pitch 3 (11a): is very similar to Slow Children and every bit as good -- Perfect splitter thin crack in a straight-in corner. Gear beta is the exact same as Slow. Crux moves even protect with a purple mastercam (just like Slow Children). Bring a green c4 to protect the move entering the finger crack.
Pitch 4 (11d): has some slabby moves followed by a finger crack to an left-arching seam. The seam (and crux) are protected by a mix of bolts and pins. The hardest moves have a bolt at waist to chest height. However, because of the arching nature of the route, you can't cheat through these moves. Be ready to crank hard through the slabby boulder problem. Over the last couple of years I have periodically brushed the route to keep it clean so it will always be safe and straight-forward. The route dries quickly after rain. One thing to beware of however, is a crux sloper seeps through the winter months.
After finishing the route, it is easiest to rap TPMV to the ground -- straight down.