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b. Jackie and friends
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.10 Top Rope TR 
A-Gape T 
Ape and Essence T,TR 
Ape Call T 
Back Door Betty T 
Badcliff T 
Belly Roll T 
Betty T 
Big Chimney T 
Blackout, The T 
Cilley Dicken' T 
Classic T 
Classy T 
Daydream T 
Denise T 
Dennis T 
Disco Death March T 
Dog Bite City T 
Habanero Balls T,TR 
His Name is called The Word of God. T 
Into Thin Hair T,TR 
Jackie T 
Jane T 
Jasmine T 
Matinee T 
Miss Bailey T 
P38 T 
Pebbles TR 
Pink Laurel T 
Radcliffe Descent T 
Raubenheimer Special T 
RMC T 
Roddy T 
Slightly Roddey T,TR 
Stirrup Trouble T 
Unknown T 
Word of Mouth T 
Unsorted Routes:

Jane 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Jim Kolocotronis and Tom Rosecrans, 1973
Page Views: 2,320
Submitted By: jd4567 on Aug 18, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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BETA PHOTO: Start of Jane

Description 

Climb the left crack of a two-crack system past a block that looks terribly loose but isn't, up into a few chimney moves, then right and up to the easily protected overhang (crux). The face climbing above is 5.7 PG. Place directional gear, then traverse left to the Ape Call belay/rap station or right to the Raubenheimer Special tree.

Location 

On a face just left of RMC's chimney.

Protection 

Standard Gunks rack.


Photos of Jane Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff Arliss on Jane
Jeff Arliss on Jane

Comments on Jane Add Comment
Show which comments
By Paul Shultz
From: Hudson, Ma
May 13, 2009

Fun up to the ceiling, and a few moves above the ceiling. I actually used the first tree, maybe 50 feet up, but don't regret it.
By Kurtz
Jun 15, 2014

I've finished both ways and it's much better IMHO to go to the 2nd tree. The moves on the on the upper face are thin and exciting. Too bad the route isn't longer.
By micah richard
From: Litchfield, Connecticut
Jun 19, 2014

Always been a bit confused about this. Is the start to jane the same as what is commonly known as the start to r.m.c.? This has the loose flake horn thing before the corner roof thing where you traverse out right? I think the proper start of R.M.C. is to the right, on the easy stacked block feature. Or does jane start more to the left of both?
By JSH
Administrator
Jun 20, 2014

I've always known RMC as the stacked blocks to the right (there's a fun move stepping onto the main face, I think).

Tim S. entered RMC, and he wrote it up as what is also described here as the start to Jane (he also noted that you can use the blocks), then a bunch of comments wrote about that loose block, so I left it as is.

The two starts are about equivalent in difficulty. Jane's higher grade comes from the moves above where it crosses and goes up right, towards Raubenheimer's.
By Dan Katz
Apr 18, 2017

A bit confused on the grade - The Swain guidebook has this at 5.8, MP says 5.7+, and Gunks App says 5.6? Anybody know whether Gunks App is listing a variation of the traditional line?
By Eriks Rozners
From: Binghamton, NY
Jun 4, 2017
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Great climbing all the way through the small overhang. The face above is also fun - thin and exciting, but I found myself way too high over my last gear, which was a 00 C3. May be I missed a placement in all the climbing excitement? If so it is at least PG, if not it was clearly R. Otherwise, it was a great climb, but not a good place to be if the grade is close to your lead limit. The Gunks App got the grade all wrong on this one IMHO.

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