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Jamminy Crackit 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 105'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Skip Harper, et al.
Season: spring to fall
Page Views: 1,317
Submitted By: slim on Sep 10, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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The rather disquieting start to 'Jamminy Crackit'....

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


This is a great route that doesn't see much traffic. For the grade at Vedauwoo, it is very friendly.

JC is located on the east end/buttress of John's Tower. This beautiful crack line navigates through steep territory. The line is obvious, with a steep, twin crack start with big hands. This transitions to thin hands with some good hand pods in steep, leaning bulge. This narrows down to fingers and then you pull a nice, fun roof that fortunately gives you a lot to work with.

Pull onto a ledge and totally switch gears. The book says that there are bolts (i.e. plural) on the face above you, but there was only one. You can tinker in some small, not so great stoppers, but be careful as the crux is encountered before you clip the bolt about 10 feet off the ledge. It is really good face climbing here but somewhat serious. There is a bolted anchor not too far above.

From the ledge, supposedly there is a bolted variation that goes out left (I didn't see it). Also, you can do a classic, Vedauwoo-looking crack traverse to the right and then climb an overhanging corner to escape. The traverse looks pretty wild, but it has perfect gear.


If approaching John's Tower from north, it is on the far left (east) side. You can't miss it - it is an overhanging crack/corner that is begging to be climbed.


Standard rack to #4 Camalot, maybe a couple extra in the thin hands to hands range. It has a bolted anchor at top. We had a 70m, which had plenty left over. Be careful though as the ground kind of slopes/ledges down away from the base.

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By Greg Cameron
Aug 12, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Fun climb, but about 1000 times easier than Burning Man, which is somehow rated easier.
By slim
Aug 12, 2013

Definitely, although they are quite different.
By Skip Harper
Nov 6, 2014

One thousand times easier than Burning Man? While possibly 'somewhat' comparable in difficulty, 'Jamminy' offers far more challenge than offwidth. At any rate, the bolts on the top face were there. I put them in. Apparently there's been some rather surreptitious chopping going on. I apologize for this and will get up there and replace them. In the meantime, please follow the sensible comments above by Slim. Thanks for letting us know.
By thomas.w
From: Denver, CO
Jun 23, 2015
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This is a stellar climb and definitely worth getting on.... We followed it up with Spectreman, and the grade felt fine in comparison.
By Greg Cameron
Mar 23, 2017
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

My last comment was geared more toward the fact that Burning Man is definitely underrated, although I would stick by my 5.10d rating for this one.
By A-W
Aug 28, 2017

Really fun, athletic hands. Take care with the last couple of pieces you place at the final bulge before the ledge... you can get some pretty awful rope drag for the slab finish. All bolts were there and seemed fine. Metolius fat rap hangers on top.

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