Type: Trad, Aid, 280 ft (85 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Dan Dellinges, Matt Merritt
Page Views: 1,733 total · 16/month
Shared By: Nathan W. on Feb 18, 2015
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

Jammies is an extremely fun and enticing route. The first pitch is the most climbed part of the route and with good cause. Though most will only climb the short first pitch, those who push onward will be greatly rewarded.
Pitch 1: 5.8+ fun! Climb the flake, via jams and liebacking, until it peters out and you have to transfer to the next crack with a tricky reaching move protected by a bolt, continue up this flake until you see the sport anchor on the face to the left. Traverse to the anchor. There's sport clips at the top for ease.
Pitch 2: the aid pitch. Tension traverse back into the crack and back-clean until satisfied. Continue up the steep crack with good placements up to a few bolts and back into a thin crack where a pin was assuring and helpful. Another bolt ladder traverses left to a seam you have to tension traverse to, to place in. The anchor is 10 feet from here. Only three pins were placed on the last ascent and the loose sections are cleaning up.
Pitch 3: 5.9. A stellar pitch that is often overlooked due to the aid pitch you gotta go through to get to it. The third pitch is by far the funnest and finest pitch of the route. The first pitch is great but it isn't quite this great. Cool lie-backing, awesome jamming and a mantel after an overhang is a great way to end a great route. This pitch makes the aid more than worth it.
A single-roped rap will get you to the 2nd anchor, from here you'll need a double rope rappel to get you to the ground.

Location Suggest change

One of the right most routes in the race crack area. It's recognizable by the dark right-facing flake with a bolt halfway up the first pitch.

Protection Suggest change

A rack of singles for the first pitch. From nuts to fists. Doubles for the second pitch from nuts to 1 inch. Save a 1 inch piece to help spread out the anchor. Pins were very helpful in a couple sections. Angles, Baby Angles & Lost Arrows. Fingers to 3" for the third pitch.
2 60m ropes

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