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Jamcrack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Loyd Price, Kim Schmitz. FFA: Kim Schmitz, Jim Madsen.
Page Views: 11,501
Submitted By: Blitzo on Sep 29, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (366)
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Justin Murano floats with the butterflies while Ja...

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Up on the right side of Sunnyside Bench, climb a nice, smooth, 5.7 jamcrack to a ledge. Step left and continue up a 5.9 thin crack to a two bolt anchor.
Can be done in one or two pitches.

Protection 

Pro to 2".


Photos of Jamcrack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Chuck Wilfley in the 5.9 section of the second pit...
Chuck Wilfley in the 5.9 section of the second pit...
Rock Climbing Photo: Garrett Woolley on P2 of Jam Crack
Garrett Woolley on P2 of Jam Crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Chuck Wilfley following the second pitch with Paul...
Chuck Wilfley following the second pitch with Paul...
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul Petersen leading the second pitch, 1980.
Paul Petersen leading the second pitch, 1980.
Rock Climbing Photo: 5.7 First Pitch
5.7 First Pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at Jamcrack from the base.  Second pitc...
Looking up at Jamcrack from the base. Second pitc...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jamcrack on a mellow rainy afternoon...
Jamcrack on a mellow rainy afternoon...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jamcrack sweetness
Jamcrack sweetness
Rock Climbing Photo: Tyson G on jamcrack
Tyson G on jamcrack
Rock Climbing Photo: "Jamcrack Route". Photo by Blitzo.
"Jamcrack Route". Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jack Doehring on "Jamcrack", 1975. Photo...
Jack Doehring on "Jamcrack", 1975. Photo...

Comments on Jamcrack Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 1, 2017
By Dennis
Mar 11, 2008

Climbed Jamcrack this weekend for the second time in 10 years. It was so much fun! Best to leave a long sling on the last piece before the ledge and combine P1 and 2.
By Steve R.
From: Oakland, CA
May 21, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun Climb! Didn't feel like a Valley 5.9 though-maybe 5.8. Good pro, solid stances and fun climbing.
By Linnea Williams
Oct 4, 2009

Nice, well protected, fun climbing. I'm a fan.
By ccmski body
From: Seattle, WA
Oct 17, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Great climbing. First pitch is great for budding trad leaders.
By Wesley Ashwood
From: Squamish, BC
Aug 2, 2010

Fun climb although the nice crack on the second pitch is a little short. You can TR a few fun 10s as well from the top of the 1st pitch.
By Rodger Raubach
Mar 16, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I climbed this with an Aussie climber, Harry Burr, and Greg Ervin. I led pitch 1 and Greg took pitch 2. Fun climb, cool and sunny day.
By Will Wilson
From: Morganton, nc
Oct 27, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I love the climb but it was soo polished, especially at the beginning of the route.
By Worster than you
From: Lafayette, CA
Mar 24, 2013

If the p1 bolts are camped, you can make a good gear anchor at the top of p1 crack w/ 0.5 camelot and the metolius range below that.
By Crimpanzee
From: San Francisco, California
Nov 17, 2014
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Personally, I think the hardest part of Jamcrack is the first 15 feet of the first pitch. It's polished and steep for 5.7, and I would call it more 5.8. I think the second pitch is just about as hard as this section (and a little easier than other 5.9 pitches in the valley).
By Walt Barker
From: Reno NV
Oct 8, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

for sure, plenty of gear and good feet. Felt stiff for the grade, I think because p-1 ended up being mostly in the loose fingers size range for me....ahhh, so it goes with cracks.
By Kash Dierksheide
From: Atascadero, California
Nov 23, 2015

NOV. 22, 2015 . LARGE rock fall about 100 ft to the right of Jamcrack. Could have done serious damage to a whole group of climbers if they would have been on those routes. Thankfully no one was there at that time. Just giving a heads up.
By Vlada Matena
Apr 9, 2016

My son and I climbed Jam Crack, Bummer, and Lazy Bum on April 8, 2016. We noticed a new huge block of rock (the size of a small car) right at the start of Bummer/Lazy Bum. The block must have fallen this winter. We climbed the routes and found that the anchors on these routes are intact.
By King Tut
From: Citrus Heights
Jan 2, 2017

Yea, an old classic.

Start is 5.8 thin hands for sure.

2nd pitch, marginal 5.9...I can't think of single Valley pitch lighter for the grade.

Take the trad boots on this one, toes get pinched in Sporto slippers.
By Mike Horan
Jun 1, 2017
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

One of my all time favorite climbs. Super easy to protect.

Second pitch was easy for the grade. The crux is definitely the thin finger crack right at the end, but there's a hidden jug to the left that helps you finish it. Crux on first pitch seemed to be the first couple moves. The feet are a little polished but you have good jams.

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