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Jam Crack Route 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 500', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 8,628
Submitted By: John J. Glime on Aug 30, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: Start of jam crack route, standing at the base of ...


This route is on the main wall on the right end of the cliff approx. 100 left of a pinnacle. Look for the obvious, prominent crack.

Pitch one, 5.6:Climb the crack, with good protection up to the anchors. If memory serves me correctly, I believe I passed what appeared to be a rappel anchor and belayed on a sandy notch/ledge. But obviously use your best judgement.

Pitch two, 5.5:Continue up and move slightly to the left until your rope runs out or to a convenient belay spot.

Pitch three, 5.5:Continue straight up to the top of the cliff or angle left on easier ramps moving upward to gain the top of the cliff.

The last two pitches are obviously easier than the first, however the protection is a little bit harder to come by, so beginners (or the responsible) should not pass up placements on the last two pitches.

To the motivated bolt placing experienced climber: This is a great wall, but the descent takes away from the experience. In my humble opinion, a bolted rappel line down this wall would benefit the community. I would be willing to help anyone that feels comfortable in that role.

Descent (two options):Head south (left) from the top of the wall to a gully which is the southern end of the main wall. Two 60 foot rappels are needed to reach the base of the wall. The gully however is full of really big loose rocks, etc. and makes the descent seem kind of sketchy.


Continue south to the next gully that seems appealing and downclimb back to the base of the wall. This isn't much fun either, but you don't have to rappel.


Standard trad rack.

Photos of Jam Crack Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: walk up as if your were trying to get behind the p...
walk up as if your were trying to get behind the p...
Rock Climbing Photo: Good exposure from near the top
Good exposure from near the top
Rock Climbing Photo: The anchor at the top of pitch two.
BETA PHOTO: The anchor at the top of pitch two.
Rock Climbing Photo: Approaching the top of pitch two.
Approaching the top of pitch two.
Rock Climbing Photo: tony at the top
tony at the top
Rock Climbing Photo: tony at the first belay
tony at the first belay

Comments on Jam Crack Route Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 10, 2015
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 11, 2005

The bolted easy route III, DOWN AND DIRTY DOUBLECROSS, 5.6-7 to the top pf the cliff located about 100 feet to the left of the Jam Crack allows 5 bolted rappels with a single 60m rope. This should serve as an easy and quick rap route for all Mule Hollow routes on this side. should not be difficult to locate if searching from the top.
By Shaun Greene
Jun 12, 2006

This is a route not to be missed. We did the rappel using two 60 meter ropes. This will allow you to rappel past the first set of ancbors you come to. At the third set of chains make a short rappell then from the next set of chains you can rappel past the next set of anchors and be on the ground.
By john gilchrist
From: sLC, utah
Jul 9, 2006

I would suggest climbing past the first set of anchors and assend to the anchors that have chains and a nicer area to belay from not to far from the first set. Pull the overhangy mess becuase it's their. Go straight up to the top, you will be able to see some chains 100 feet to the left and half way up that belong to another climb don't go for them like I did.
By Jason Billings
From: Draper, UT
Jul 31, 2006

Unless you are looking for more of an alpine experience, I'd take an extra rope an rap at the chains after the first long pitch. It's not that the next two pitches aren't fun, they are just extremely mild, but the rock is excellent. Beware of raspberry bushes.
By jtn Crankarm
Jul 23, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

A single 60m rope will work on the decent rap for all but the THIRD rap. It comes up about 10 ft shy of the next anchor.
By Tosh Peters
From: Park City, UT
Oct 11, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

the first pitch is worth the hike and the second two are really good too if your confident pretty far above gear. the aformentioned rap route is scary with a 60 meter rope as the 3rd rap is too long. we did it in a little over 7 hours car to car and didnt see a single other climber. definitly cool.
By Texaswall
From: The Woodlands, TX
Aug 18, 2008

After reading john's comment above that suggests skipping the first anchors that one comes upon, I found myself at the end of a 70m rope, establishing a gear belay. I saw no other anchors on the way up, so be smarter than I was, and stop in the alcove below the "overhangy mess" and take advantage of the chains. From there, go up, trend left, and find another very comfy belay ledge with chains. Straight up from there, between the very visible last chains of "Down and Dirty" on the face and the gully on the right, is easy climbing on some remarkable holds with ample protection. Chains on the top of D & D were obvious.
By Miller
From: Salt Lake
Jul 14, 2009

It is easy to get off route on this climb. And there are multiple pitch variations and Rap Options. An adventurous climb worth doing all the pitches if you already slogged up there.
By Mark Parrett
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Aug 17, 2009

Did this route yesterday and would say that P1 is worth it but the rest really is not worth climbing.

Also, to clarify on the above comments, when climbing P1, there is a two bolt anchor with some aging cord and fixe links. We stopped and belayed here, but if you continue up about 15 feet, you hit a belay station with chains, and the belay is much more comfortable. If you pass those and pull the overhanging block, no more anchors to the top.
By skrivan
Sep 20, 2009

we climbed it today. pretty good quality rock. after that hike, i'd definitely do all 3 pitches. skip the blue-cord anchor on the way up, as noted in the above comment---go another 20 feet to an alcove.

the upper pitches are fun low-angle jug-fests---i didnt feel runout too badly, (but for sure the few placements are tricky). as mentioned, dont go to the chain anchor that you can see from the second belay....that must be a convenient rap anchor if you only have a single 60.

the last 15 minutes of the approach kind of sucked and we had to bushwack a bit to get back on the "trail". We were right on 5 hours car to car.

Gear: go lighter than we did. you dont NEED a number 3 camalot or anything larger than a 2 (we placed the #3 once, just 'cuz we had it). I'd take medium to large stoppers, 2 number 1 cams, 2 number 2's, a .75, a .5 and a few smaller units (C3's or TCUs were good---probably went in on all pitches). We only used about half of our rack. I put long runners on the stoppers and we maybe used 1 quickdraw elsewhere (we had 6 QDs). Anyway, my point is that the rack can be lighter than what we took, especially with the nice fixed belays. Next time, I'd just take a 70 M rope and leave the second cord behind.
By rging
From: Salt Lake City, Ut
May 9, 2012

First pitch is great, last two forgettable. Do the 5.7 if you are going to hike up to this wall.
By Josh Allred
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 22, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

2.5 stars for the first pitch, solitude and awesome scenery.
By morgoth70
From: Bountiful, UT
Jan 3, 2015

first pitch is 4 stars - well protected and fun, sustained for the grade. 2nd and 3rd pitches get 3 stars - fun romp up easy jugs. The walk off sucks! Bring and extra rope or tag line and rap from the chains
By Sean A Smith
From: South Salt Lake, UT
Aug 10, 2015
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

There seem to be a lot of different info on this route so here's my two cents...

Protection: Single set of nuts, single set X4s from .1-.3 (or equivalent), single set of C4s from .4-#3 (or equivalent), 8 alpine draws. There weren't many options for gear after the first pitch and all the belays have chains so you really don't need much gear. If you are nervous about the crack you could bring a few more pieces.

Ascent: All of the belays have chains so that's what you're looking for.
-Pitch one: Climb the crack past a rap station (no chains just two bolts and some webbing) that will be on your right to an alcove with a nice place to stand and a set of chains.
-Pitch two: Climb left out of the alcove and trend left out of the big broken crack system onto a face towards a treed ledge with another set of chains.
-Pitch Three: Don't climb towards the anchors that you see on the face to the left. Climb right of the chains to a set of chains that just hang over the edge of the huge ledge.

Decent: We had a 70 meter rope and just rapped the route.
-The first rap goes down to the chains that you pass on the face to the left of the route.
-Second rap goes to the top of pitch two.
-Third rap goes to the top of pitch one.
-Fourth rap goes to the rap station with webbing to the right of the route.
-Fifth rap hits the bottom.

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