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Casual Viewing T 
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Jake Flake T 
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Vision T 

Jake Flake 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Scott Hammon and James Newkam
Season: Any
Page Views: 961
Submitted By: Chris Chaney on Apr 8, 2010  with updates from Ryan Babbitt

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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Climb the flake just right of the start of Vision. Follow the crack system all the way to the top of the wall and rappel from a tree or over Kentucky Pinstripe. You can escape left onto Vision in a couple of places.


Just right of Vision. Start from the same ledge.


You need smaller stuff for the start. Take care with placement. This is not a good beginner lead.

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By scott hammon
May 10, 2013

This climb has it's own anchors at the top of the wall
By Andrew R.
From: Linden, VA
Dec 5, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Lower part takes passive protection as well.
By Dreez
Jun 16, 2014

Oh man, if I was a 5.7 leader trying this I would pee in my pants. I thought there were a couple thin/unprotected reachy 5.9 moves. 20 feet up. The rest is trivial.
By Michael Mahoney
From: Gillette, WY
Oct 8, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

There is no way a leader of this climb would ever rate it 5.7+. Gotta throw the Bulls**t flag on this one. The moves down low are harder than that on top rope. Mix in placing skimpy pro off of thin holds and I'd personally consider a clean lead of this climb somewhere in the low 10s. I'm clearly a wuss and in the minority with this opinion though.
By Chris Chaney
From: Stanton, Kentucky
Jan 5, 2015

I'm not sure why it's showing up as 7+. I distinctly remember thinking the 5.8 grade the FA gave it (yeah I'm talking about you Scott) was BS
By EthanC
May 18, 2015
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13

No way is this 5.7, although it was slightly damp when I climbed it. A couple hard moves protected by 00 TCU and a wire, with the crux hold also the highest good placement (your choice). Compare this to father and son or vision around the corner. 5.7+ is a pretty severe sandbag, thought it felt much more like 5.9- or 5.9
By Chris Chaney
From: Stanton, Kentucky
Jul 6, 2015

I agree with a 5.8+/5.9 rating. I put it in as 5.7+ because other climbers insisted it was well protected with stoppers (its not) and that it wasn't that hard (it is).

Just because you can put stoppers in a crack doesn't mean they'll hold a fall. Sure, a 00 came will work, but again, that doesn't mean the fall potential so near the ground is minimized.

This is not a beginner lead and just because a beginner might pull it off doesn't change the reality of the climb.
By Jordan Downing
From: Ann Arbor, MI
Nov 21, 2016
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This was a fun climb. I did climb it after dark which would add the R rating!
Small pro in the beginning helps. Bolts at the top for TR.

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