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Jaja City 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Öztürk K./Mustafa E. 2002
Page Views: 181
Submitted By: Zach Alberts on Mar 30, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

This is a must do über classic. Almost 40 meters of tufa climbing cumulates with an amazing finish. In my opinion it is the best route of the grade that I've done anywhere. There is a midway anchor that can be used for descent if your rope is too short. The crux for me was before the first anchor, so if you only climb to the first anchor and then descend, you are only cheating yourself of the unique and amazing climbing above which easily adds a star. The only problem at the top was trying to drag almost 40 meters of rope behind me. It can be a little confusing climbing around the huge tufa at the top. There is some chalk which goes left around the tufa (with no protection for about 20 feet, but the original route goes to right around the tufa to a bolt. A 80m rope makes it to the ground easily...a 70m rope might meke it as well, but I can't say for sure--tie a knot! Pumpy and fun.

Protection 

about 18 bolts to a fixed anchor


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By Jake Dickerson
Administrator
From: Lander, WY
Feb 21, 2017
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Absolutely incredible. It's not over till you clip the chains!

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