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Watch Crystal
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Black Arete, The T 
Crime & Punishment S 
Doctor Doolittle S 
Dogs of Doom T,TR 
Double Exposure S 
Double Exposure Direct T,S 
Durangutan T,S 
Evolution S 
Extra Cool T 
Hidden Gem S 
Jailhouse Monkey (on dope) T,S 
Kong Route, The T,S 
Left Picto T 
Martyr's Crown T,S 
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Simians to the Sun T,S 
Watch Crystal Crack T 
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Unsorted Routes:

Jailhouse Monkey (on dope) 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 2,645
Submitted By: Grant Bryans on May 2, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Jail House Monkeys on Dope.

Description 

Climb the same start as Durangotang to gain belay ledge. From the belay ledge shoot straight up (Durangotang is to your left and Apes of Wrath is to your right) 160 feet to the top.

Protection 

Small Aliens and some stoppers are needed to protect the crack section.


Comments on Jailhouse Monkey (on dope) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Marcus garcia
From: Durango, Co.
May 8, 2011

This is a classic route that climbs great. Nice job, Tim.
By fubar
From: Babylon
Oct 7, 2014

I really enjoyed this route, but I was wondering about the crux--I'm a tall guy, and it was a lot easier to climb a bit right of the bolt line. There wasn't any chalk on the upper part of the route, so I'm not sure if this is where it's supposed to go...following the bolts up the incipient seam was way, way harder.
By Ben Griffin
From: Durango, CO
Oct 10, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I have always gone to the crimps to the right of the seam. There are better feet out there as well. It doesn't really take you off the bolt line. You go right of the seam, and the crux finishes at the following bolt. The upper headwall where there is a sea of credit card crimps follows the bolt line to the top of the Watch Crystal cliff.
By Tim Kuss
From: Durango, CO
Mar 30, 2016
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Here's the story of the FA:
durangorockclimbing.com/2016/0...
By Ben Kiessel
Jun 8, 2017

There is that thin flake hold you pull on with your left hand on the short steep section below the crux. Seems like it'll take one person pulling out too much or climbing when it's wet to rip it off. What are people's thoughts on giving it some back up glue? Seems like just saying, sandstone experts only didn't work on Bedrocks Latest.
By eli poss
From: Durango, Co
Jun 9, 2017

Given the whole lowering biner situation, I have a hard time believing people will be any more courteous when it comes to not climbing on wet sandstone. If it can be done in a discrete manner that isn't obvious visually, then I say why not, but I will defer to the more seasoned East A climbers as I'm a youngin' who's relatively new to Durango and probably won't ever climb hard enough to enjoy this route.

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