REI Community
Lower Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Boy and His Arête T 
Beer Can Direct S 
Black Magic T 
Black Opal T 
Black Pyre T 
Blue Wind T 
Crown Royal T 
Farce T 
For Real Crack T 
Groove, The T 
Hemorroids in Flight T 
Jailbreak (variation) T,TR 
Novitiate's Nightmare T 
Pillar of Society S 
Sinbad-Herbert T 
Surrealistic Pillar T 
Surrealistic Pillar Direct T 
Wild Turkey T 

Jailbreak (variation) 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: Rick Sumner (1976)
Page Views: 268
Submitted By: Guy H. on Feb 18, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


This is great TR or heady lead in between the 5.10b and 5.7 starts of Surrealistic Pillar. The climb starts out with some runout face climbing for 30ft, with what is considered questionable gear for some and good enough for others. You be your own judge on that. Pull left into some thin cracks and follow them to the roof above. Jam the powerful crux roof and continue on easy rock to the anchors. The runnout section below the roof is no harder than 5.8 at any time.


Gear 2.5", with extra hand sized cams...

Comments on Jailbreak (variation) Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 9, 2016
By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Feb 20, 2006
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

I thought we were on the other 10 variation, made for fun runout climbing. Very tricky climbing, well worth the effort, protecting the roof was very strenuous.
By Salamanizer suchoski
From: Vacaville Ca.
Jul 17, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R

That roof (and variation) is 10b.....10c if you really want to stretch it. It's not really runout either. Plenty of stuff to sling to keep yourself from hitting the deck. It's a bit spicy, but definitely not runout.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Dec 11, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R

pulling the roof direct is .10b.
By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Jan 5, 2007
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

I still think it's a runout lead. Especially considering today's climbs. Slinging horns is nice but I felt sketchy and it was gonna hurt if I fell. I consider that runout, from the leader's point of view. Without more folks leading this route to gain consensus we are left with those who feel runout and those who don't. I felt runout. Good climb though.
By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Jan 22, 2007
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

I'll have to go back and lead it again, I can't really remember where exactly I thought the crux was, I felt more runout than anything. I think I was worried about getting to the roof and then plugging in a cam. The climbing wasn't too difficult but I did feel out there compared to most cracks. Kinda like cochise climbing.
By Evan Riley
From: San Francisco, CA
Sep 6, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13

I led this yesterday. It didn't feel so run out. You can sling the monkey fist once you are a few moves up, then plug double equalized cams in the roof before you move around to the face. After that the gear is good. The crux is pulling the second roof.
By Ryan Williams
From: London (sort of)
Sep 18, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

This was a very fun pitch. I'd struggle to call it 10d and certainly wouldn't call it R but it was a bit spicy. Very cool climbing none the less.
By BrianWS
Jan 28, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Sparse gear until a few feet below the second roof, but on 5.easy terrain. Red and green c3's will give some confidence at the first roof down and right of the main crack.
By Ryan Watts
From: Bishop, CA
Jul 1, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Felt significantly harder than the other direct start (the large corner/dihedral). The gear is a bit dicey until you get to the crux roof but the climbing isn't that hard as long as you keep it together. The gear through the crux is good as long as you can hang out to place it.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jul 1, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R

This page has changed names.

I don't think this climb is Jailbreak, this is in the old guides as a variation to the direct.

Jailbreak is a dirty right hand start variation to the regular .7 surrealistic pillar start. You start in the same spot but instead of traversing left early, you go straight up through a 3' or so right facing flake and into crufty dikes.
By Evan Wisheropp
Aug 9, 2016

I agree with Caughtinside, I always thought Jail Break was skipping the leftward ledge traverse and going straight up through a short steep section before moving left to Surrelistic.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About