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Indian Rock
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Blowing Bubbles S,TR 
Cum Slot T,TR 
Dismal Abysmal S,TR 
Donkey Dong S,TR 
High On Testosterone T,S 
Hocus S,TR 
Jail Bird S,TR 
Krokus S,TR 
Puckered Starfish S,TR 
South Face S,TR 
Strip Poker S 
Viscious Circles S,TR 

Jail Bird 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
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Submitted By: Daniel Trugman on Dec 7, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Bolts/ route for jailbird left is the 12a version ...

Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Basically 15 feet of relatively easy climbing (5.10ish) followed by a stout V4 (old-school graded) boulder problem. Not a great route, but could be entertaining if you are a stronger climber than I am.

Start up the left side of the arete, making cool moves with great jugs, clipping the first two bolts with ease. Then fire the wicked-hard boulder problem - a long move off of marginal feet to a terrible sloper, then crank for the good holds.

Location 

Furthest left climb on the Southwest Face of Indian Rock (the face you first come to as you approach from the parking lot). Right of the large easy chimney you can scramble up to set a TR.

Protection 

2 bolts to a 2 bolt-anchor. TR possible by scrambling in from the left chimney or by climbing "South Face" and traversing in from the right.

The first bolt is pretty sketchy - I wouldn't fall on it.


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