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Jah Man 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ken Trout and Kirk Miller, 1984
Page Views: 64,441
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Nov 9, 2001

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Getting close to Sister Superior, looking back tow...

  • See this from the Friends of Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>
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  • Description 

    The tower does not look like much from afar, but this route is steep, veeery steep and excellent, mostly thin hands at the cruxes. The top is very skinny and exposed.

    When you reach the base the route is obvious. Look for the squeeze chimney. Getting to it requires a first pitch of some difficult to protect 5.8-5.9 moves from the left.

    The hardest part of the second pitch is getting into the chimney, the rest is quite secure. The anchor is fixed.

    The third pitch heads straight up on 5.10, traverse left, perhaps the crux, and then goes up an easy corner to a nice ledge.

    Pitch four follows the obvious 5.10 crack (wonderful thin hands).

    Pitch five steps around the corner and makes a short 9+/10 boulder problem to the summit.


    Bring a double set of Friends for this route.


    Rappel the route (can be done in four with a single 60 meter rope, or three with a 70m). Use the newest sets of anchors.

    Photos of Jah Man Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Sister Superior
    Sister Superior
    Rock Climbing Photo: Top of the spire, ma!
    Top of the spire, ma!
    Rock Climbing Photo: great day for a kite
    great day for a kite
    Rock Climbing Photo: There are good belays and there are good belays...
    There are good belays and there are good belays...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Rapping the anchors to the right.
    Rapping the anchors to the right.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Third pitch.
    Third pitch.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Sister Superior showing Jah Man
    BETA PHOTO: Sister Superior showing Jah Man
    Rock Climbing Photo: josh toasting some buns on the summit. he made a p...
    josh toasting some buns on the summit. he made a p...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Finally above the fog into blinding sunshine.  Cas...
    Finally above the fog into blinding sunshine. Cas...
    Rock Climbing Photo: rapping down jah man. easily done in 3 raps with a...
    rapping down jah man. easily done in 3 raps with a...
    Rock Climbing Photo: 3rd pitch.
    3rd pitch.
    Rock Climbing Photo: George Armstrong on Jah Man. Photo by Todd Gordon ...
    George Armstrong on Jah Man. Photo by Todd Gordon ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Summit shot with Castleton and the Rectory in the ...
    Summit shot with Castleton and the Rectory in the ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Sweet thin hands splitter on the third pitch!
    Sweet thin hands splitter on the third pitch!
    Rock Climbing Photo: Hiking up the approach trail.  You can see the who...
    BETA PHOTO: Hiking up the approach trail. You can see the who...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down while Tony Bubb comes up the top pitc...
    Looking down while Tony Bubb comes up the top pitc...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Steve Tweito coming up pitch 4.  Nice view of the ...
    Steve Tweito coming up pitch 4. Nice view of the ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: About to go for the approach!
    About to go for the approach!
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tim Foulkes replacing a 1/4 inch bolt on the last ...
    Tim Foulkes replacing a 1/4 inch bolt on the last ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jah Man
    Jah Man
    Rock Climbing Photo: The Squeeze.
    The Squeeze.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Peter Metcalf starting into the goods right off th...
    Peter Metcalf starting into the goods right off th...
    Rock Climbing Photo: on top
    on top
    Rock Climbing Photo: birds

    Show All 70 Photos

    Only the first 24 are shown above.

    Comments on Jah Man Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 18, 2017
    By justino
    Apr 17, 2017

    Summit anchors need some love. The newest bolt is pulling out. Great route worthy of a glue in or two up there.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Nov 9, 2001

    This route can also be recommended as a good stepping stone to the North Face and Fine Jade. While not as hard or sustained, it is comparable in exposure, quality crack climbing, and in being a striking, elegant crack line.
    By Mike Sofranko
    Nov 9, 2001

    I'd call the step left crux solid 10+. It's also scrunchy and probably a little harder if you're tall. The thin hands pitch is considerably easier. The boulder problem at the top is sorta funky and probably easier if you're tall.

    For the rack, I placed a couple nuts - maybe bring every other one. In addition, 1 set of cams blue TCU to #3 Camalot. Double up on #0.5 Camalot, 6x #0.75 Camalot, and 3x #1 camalots.

    The first pitch as described can be broken into 2 shorter pitches. If you take two ropes to rappel, you can rap from the summit to the top of the squeeze. Then, one more rap to the ground. Rapping from the anchor below the summit is a little sketch since you are pulling out pretty hard on the anchor (drilled angles). The top of the squeeze has two sets of anchors - use the new ones to rap.

    Fantastic route - one of the best. Possibly very crowded, though.

    By Anonymous Coward
    Nov 12, 2001

    6X .75 Camalot!????!?!? wHERE???!!!
    By Mike Sofranko
    Nov 12, 2001

    Well, Anonymous Coward, pro suggestions are relative and subjective by nature (but you knew that). This route has been free soloed, afterall. Myself, I'm totally weak and scared and can never seem to place enough pro to calm my fragile nerves.

    For the crux pitch and the thin hands pitch, I protected almost exclusively with .75 camalots and #2 friends. 6x was my quick quess as to what I carried, and this isn't too out of line from what is suggested in other guides. The guys ahead of us had 2x in this size (they were using the Falcon Rock Climbing Utah book which says bring a pile of #3 Friends - that's wrong, it should be #2s) , and they were certainly wishing for more.

    I consider the pro list in the original description to be pretty bogus, but like I pointed out, people have done it with less than that. Personally, I'm not sure where one would place 2x#4, 2x#3.5, 2x#3, or 2x of anything smaller than 1.75 friends on this route. Maybe I just didn't notice those placements because I had so many thin hands pieces, I don't know. Like you, I'm simply offering another opinion.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Nov 19, 2001

    Yet another gear suggestion for those who care to know another opinion. I was pretty close to my limit on this route, and probably like the above commenter I prefer to keep my fragile nerves calmed. My partner and I wrote the following list at the summit (though I can't recall what else we did up there, memory's a bit hazy).

    Aliens - 1 blue, 1 green, 2 yellow. Camalots - 3 x .5(purple), 5 x .75(green), 3 x 1(red), 2 x 2(yellow). No nuts, hexes or low grade shake.

    Helmets are always recommended on towers, of course, but mine jammed at the awkward entrance to the squeeze so I chucked it. Belay ledges are clear of rubble.

    This is an absolutely superior tower route.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Nov 20, 2001
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

    The Crux for me was green camalots in the top pitch. I lead the traverse moves and found them technically harder, but not as pumpy, so I felt more secure, as I took my time to figure them out. THe top thin hands I felt like racing time on, and felt insecure. I don't know that I'd have been strong enough to place 5-6 green camalots, but I guess it is possible to do so.

    Maybe some people are like me, if it is a red or yellow camalot, who needs much gear (this is why I only own two of each of those sizes, but four 2" pcs.)
    By Robert Stetler
    Dec 20, 2001

    So when the route is sustained red or yellow camalots for 100 place your red at 30ft, and maybe a yellow at 70 ft so that you can bounce if you fudge it and miss your clip? Sounds like a plan to me. where do I sign up? I mean I would much rather not spend the money on those pesky little things that save my life because I'm not all about climbing but rather all about telling people how studly I am at climbing.
    By Charles Vernon
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Feb 19, 2002

    As far as gear, I think most people will be comfortable with 3 each of .75 and 1 camalots, as the crack on the third pitch varies a bit in width. I'd bring at least 2 .5 camalots (or whatever) as well, for the crux pitch. I can't recall any placement larger than a 3 friend, YMMV. I'd recommend leaving the stoppers at home unless you really want to be old-school about it. The chimney looks scary and doesn't take big cams, but was much more secure than I anticipated.

    As several have mentioned, this tower doesn't catch your eye like Castleton, but the climbing and the summit are phenomenal. Just enough foot edges to keep the grade at (solid) 5.10+.
    By Frank Stock
    Apr 8, 2002

    We just climbed this yesterday. If someone forced me to put an order on classic desert towers, this probably is only second to Moses and just ahead of the North Face and Fine Jade. It just was really nice climbing on a great day.

    I kept track of what we used after reviewing this page last week for beta. A comfortable rack was 4 #.75 (5 would not be out of line) and 3 #1 camalots and 2 of .4, .5 and #2 camalots. One piece smaller is nice in the chimney, and one piece larger could protect nasty fall on easier ground the final 20 feet of pitch 2. Definately only one piece (if any) in this size range. We also threw a large stopper to back up the first belay, although it probably wasn't necessary.

    For the rap beta with one 60m rope: Rap the first three raps to the top of the same flake you tunneled behind for pitch one. The last rap is at the climbers right on the flake/ledge from the belay anchor that is used for the top of pitch one climbing. Shiny new hangers that drop you on the south prow in an easy rap. Walk 100 feet back around to your pack at the base.

    Cheers, Frank
    By Kurt Birkenmeier
    Jan 21, 2003

    What happened to the new bolts on top of the Squeeze chimney? I didn't feel to safe rapping off of the 1984 loose bolt and peton. it looked as if there were new bolts at one time. Did they pull? P.S. watch out for the local hics fireing there guns off while your climbing "YIKES".
    By Anonymous Coward
    Apr 24, 2003

    What is a 0.75 Camalot equivalent to in old style friend sizes? Do you need a 3.5 Camalot on Jah-man? What is the best approach? Where should we camp - same as for Castleton?
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Apr 25, 2003
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

    0.75 Camalot is essentially a #2 Friend, but you can place a 1.5" here and there, too. I did not carry a #3.5 on the tower and I didn't feel that I needed or wanted one, but I am sure if you take one that you can find a place to put it if you try. The two cruxes were going up left under a flake through the overhang of the second-to-last pitch which I protected with #3 Friend (maybe a tight #3 Camalot would work) and then the tight hands run for the top which pros on 1.5-2" pieces. You can camp as for Castleton, but the walk in is much shorter if you drive back around to the other side to approach. The walk was so-so, but in the flat area there were really nice desert flowers the whole way in, 2 years ago at about this time.
    By Anonymous Coward
    May 2, 2003

    We did Jah Man last weekend. We found the gear notes above very helpful and ended up carrying three of #1.5 and #2 Friend sizes with doubles of other sizes and only one #3 Friend. I found that the #2 Friend was "tipped out" in several instances on the thin hands sections or almost too opened up for comfort. Having resolved to add some Camalots to my rack, I was advised by a new acquaintance and desert expert that Camalots do not have the same holding power in desert rock at certain cam positions as Friends. Apparently fall tests at Indian Creek demonstrated this point. Thus, a mix of protection types and extras as described in other comments may be more appropriate than a minimum rack of Camalots. The last rap to the ground is best done from the belay on the arete. Does anyone know the ratings of the arete route pitches? I led the first pitch and figure about 5.11 maybe 5.11a considering some ratings in Castle Valley.
    By Max Schon
    Jan 28, 2004
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    Just did the route again last weekend. Forgot how cool this route is. Anyways, here are my gear suggestions.

    Three .75 cams or #2 Friends and maybe three #1 Camalots. An orange alien backs up the manky bolt on pitch 2 nicely. The flake is going to break, someday soon perhaps. Two .5 Camalots is plenty and maybe a couple finger pieces. Nuts can certainly be placed all over this climb. Nothing bigger then a #3 Camalot is needed. Take #2 Camalot.
    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 11, 2004

    Hmm, Kor-Ingalls or N Chimney on Castleton are easier and will get you used to the rock, but involve mostly wider cracks where the crux on Jah Man is a thin crack (but Castleton would be good preparation for the "Sister Squeeze" right before the crux pitch). If you hang out at Indian Creek and cruise up all the easiest (5.10!) thin cracks that would probably be the best warm-up you could ask for. However the crux on Jah Man is not as sustained as an Indian Creek splitter.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Apr 12, 2004

    I thought the gear list from A.C. 11-19-01 was perfect. You can easily get away with fewer green camalots but that size is in your face on the two 5.10 pitches so it makes things easier. The pitches are relatively short making for what seemed like a much quicker day than, say, a route on Castleton. A single 60m rope worked well and I'd recommend it since its not a short approach. You just need to rap from the new anchors at the far end of the ledge atop Sister Squeeze. There is a newer bolted climb over there, does anybody know anything about it?
    By Bryan Gartland
    From: Helena, MT
    May 13, 2004

    I will have to agree with the late Mike Sofranko, the traverse on pitch three felt super hard for me (I'm 6'2"). I'm far from hardman status but I'd like to think that I can second 5.10 without hanging, which didn't happen on this part of the route. Is our #2 forged friend still fixed just before heading up the vertical crack?
    By crackroach
    Nov 1, 2004
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    The most exciting thing about this climb are the consistently manky bolts. Whether they be anchor bolts or protection bolts on the last pitch, they're mostly rusty 1/4 inch drive bolts. Next time I hike up...I'm taking a bolt puller and some 3/8"x3.5" least for the belays.
    By Walt Wilkinson
    Oct 24, 2005

    Great route for women to lead.The chimney is fun to turn around in if you're small, and both crux pitches- thin hands- say "come to mommy!"

    By Anonymous Coward
    Oct 31, 2005

    dive pitches my arse! we did it in two w/70m rope link first three and last two. xcellent route only need one rope. easist approach I've done in desert!!! if you liked castlton; you'll love the sista.
    By Aimee Rose
    From: Bend, or
    Apr 26, 2006

    Okay, more gear beta to mull over... I brought 2 sets of camalots up to #3 with 6 #1s. I didn't place the #3s at all- waste of weight damn it! I placed 5 #1s on the 4th pitch and was happy to have them. I'm not sure where everyone was placing all those green camalots since the red ones seemed to fit nicely.

    And, being 5 foot tall, I don't think the crux on the 3rd pitch is easier for short people. It's actually quite a reach to that gaston flake and the feet are way low! But totally doable. And the last pitch is pretty tough if you're short. I had to throw for the arete- very bouldery, but I stuck it and it was all good.

    All in all this is an amazing route and well worth the walk! I thought the approach to the Rectory was way less steep than this one.

    Oh, and yes the forged friend is still there. I could touch it and I felt it move, but since I was pumping out on lead, I didn't try to clean it ;)
    By Legs Magillicutty
    From: Littleton
    May 22, 2006

    Any other chimneys on towers in the desert comparable to Sister Squeeze? The entire route was lots of fun. I expected the hand crack to be my favorite section of the route but it turns out that the chimney pitch was. I saw the new anchors at the top of P2, far right on the ledge but I was wondering why there were 2 holes in what seemed to be perfectly good rock, above the piton and star driver at the top of P2. Seemed like a great place for a couple of bolts to back up the "historical" anchor.
    By Joe Leonhard
    From: Denver, CO
    Oct 28, 2006

    Great route! Cool idea of the guy who left the registry on the summit. Hope you guys get it back.
    By Sergio P
    From: Idaho Springs, CO
    Nov 1, 2006

    Optional rap route. From the top of the Sister Squeeze flake/pillar you can walk along the ledge to the right to some newer anchors and hit the ground with one 60m rope. This seemed to be a cleaner rap option then going off the belay anchors on top of P2. See the photo I added. Then just walk around the tower back to the base of the route. Maybe a 30 second walk.
    By David Shiembob
    From: slc, ut
    Nov 9, 2006

    Awesome route. I placed #1 camalots, not many #.75s on the thin hands pitch.
    By bwillem
    From: the wasatch
    Nov 23, 2006

    Rap beta: 70m Rope works great. from top of tower rap to top of P3. Rap to top of P2 and walk right to shiny new anchors. Rap to ground.
    By Greg D
    From: Here
    Apr 14, 2007

    The second to last pitch (10b) may be harder for big hands people. It was harder for me to follow this pitch than it was to lead the "crux" pitch.
    By jhump
    Dec 12, 2008
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

    Quick note on the drive in: It was muddy a few days after the Thanksgiving 2008 rain. It was very foggy and easy to mistake where to begin walking. My partner and I (in my truck) and a party on foot went back and forth trying to locate the approach trail. We wasted close to 2 hours looking. Eventually we drove past a few boulders in the road, then parked a few hundred yards further. We walked in deeper and it became clear that only a serious 4wd vehicle could make it past some of the boulders in the road/wash. Continue on and look for an OBVIOUS CAIRN on the LEFT. GO LEFT AT THE CAIRN. Do not second guess that you have already passed it. You will know when you are there- KEEP WALKING. Once you gain the approach trail, it is virtually impossible to get lost. It was easy, even in our pea soup fog bank. Check out a few of the pics I posted once we got above the fog. Mellow climb and lots of fun.
    By Jason Killgore
    From: boulder, co
    Oct 19, 2009

    the desert select guidebook suggested that the chimney would be poorly protected. I did not find this to be the case. Small nuts protect the entrance. Then, by climbing deep inside the chimney, plenty of gear presents itself (not that it would really be possible to fall out in there). The key to "sewing" it up is to aim for the extension of the crack that starts the 3rd (crux) pitch. Reach this and plug away with finger size gear right up to the bolted anchor.
    By broppler
    From: Oakland
    Nov 24, 2009
    rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

    Climbed this route in september. The road is completely washed out with large boulders blocking it about a mile or so from the trailhead. The road up to this point was barely manageable with my subaru wagon, but manageable nonetheless. A large cairn on the left side of the road marks the beginning of the approach trail.

    The squeeze pitch is easy, well-protected, and fun. This would make an ideal rack:
    (3)-.5 (4)-.75 (3)-1 (1)-2 and aliens
    By Tommey-James
    From: Boulder,Colorado
    Apr 7, 2010
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    Hey so what is the gear for this climb. Is the tight hands more camalot 1's or .75's
    By JoshOrin
    From: Telluride, CO
    Apr 30, 2010

    my rack for next time I go up: aliens - (1) set (yellow - copper), BD's - (1) .5, (2) .75, (4) 1, (1) 2, (1) 3. (1) 60M rope. Amazing route.
    By Weakday Climber
    Oct 5, 2010

    The road is currently washed out in several places. A pick, shovel and a strong back will be needed to repair the road. I believe it could be repaired in a few hours. Alternatively, hike longer.
    By knowbuddy Buddy
    Jan 24, 2011

    What a chill route! Except for getting into the chimney ha. My buddy and I climbed it yesterday and the weather was beautiful. The approach has to be hell in the summer heat. As far as gear we used a surprisingly small amount. Although we took triples of just about everything from a blue alien to #2 camalot, we never placed more than two of the same pieces besides a green and a red. Next time we go we'll probably take: 1 Blue Alien, 1 set of TCU's from blue to red, 1 purple link, 3 greens, 3 red's, 1 gold, and maybe a gold link as well.
    By Vaughn
    May 28, 2011
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    We did a double rope rappel off the summit to the top of the chimney. There was substantial drag pulling the rope and ours got stuck. It took some panicked sawing and pulling to get it free. I would recommend descending in 3 single rope rappels.
    By Joshh
    From: Denver, CO
    Nov 21, 2011

    Does anyone know if the dirt road to approach this climb is washed out? I have heard that it is from people, just want to make sure we plan for enough time to hike in if we need to start from 128...
    By Perin Blanchard
    From: Orem, UT
    Nov 21, 2011
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    @Joshh: The road was in quite bad shape on 29 Oct 2011 (completely gone in a few locations where it was in the wash).

    In my Corolla we made it about 1/8 mile or so before I'd had enough; a high-clearance vehicle would probably have made it another 1/8 to 1/4 mile or so without serious risk of damage/getting stuck.

    Took us about 2 hours from the car to the base of the tower.
    By Greg G
    From: SLC, UT
    Nov 21, 2011

    Unless you have a high clearance vehicle you aren't going to make it far up the wash. Considering the likelyhood of getting stuck or washed out in less than 1/2 mile of driving up the wash vs. hiking 15 min from the road to the same spot you'd park. All in all Perin's time is pretty spot on if you hike from the road.

    Also after speaking with Sam from FOIC the property right off 128 is owned by the Nature Convservancy, and they wish to keep the road as is. Meaning zero grading or road work.

    Bottom line is - Hiking up the wash from the road is flat, and fast to the large cairn making the start of the main trail to Jah Man.
    By Sam Lightner, Jr.
    From: Lander, WY
    Nov 21, 2011

    Hi Gang
    Here is the link to our FB page on the subject of this road.

    Also, if you go there, "Like" us. The FOIC is working hard for climbing and the more friends we have, the more effective we can be... seriously.

    By claytown
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 24, 2012

    Had a great time on Jah Man on 9/21/2012. Super-classic route and summit for sure. As stated before, it's a bigger hike than Castleton or the Rectory. The road is still pretty bad. You can currently drive in about 1 mile from the road with a stock truck, but then it's better to just walk.

    As for the route itself, if you are comfortable on the grade you could take doubles of #.75 and #1 camalot and be fine if you bump at all. #2 friends would also be money. If you want more, take #2 friends or #1 camalot, not a ton of .75s as stated earlier in the thread. You can also link both crux pitches pretty easily.

    Also the first move, right off the ground, is tricky. You might want to short rope that as a 60' pitch, then just walk across the ledge to start the squeeze.

    We rapped with a a single 60 in 3 raps. From the summit, go full rope (tie knots!!!) to the ledge. One more ~170 rap to the top of the squeeze. 1 more rap to the ground from the rings on the right of the ledge. Route gets a lot of sun! Start early if it's hot.
    By Mike Willig
    Oct 5, 2012

    What a great climb! It could only get better if the tower were taller!Anyone know why the bolt was put on the traverse? You could plug in any number of cams in the horizontal crack.
    By LJE15
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Nov 6, 2012

    What a beautiful route! Two bits of beta:

    1. We approached from Castleton and walked the ridge from the Rectory to the Sister Superior Group. It's a really nice scenic walk, and it took us a solid two hours. We talked with two other parties on the route that day, and they had come up the wash from the traditional approach up Ida Gulch rd. Those folks had said that it took about an hour and a half for them. Seems like sixes either way you go, and there is a fair bit of elevation gain and loss along the ridge, but if you were really motivated you could do something on Castleton in the morning and then make your way over to Jah Man.

    2. The third pitch stepping over to the left felt like the crux to me. Pumpy! The next pitch is amazing thin hands. I used 3x .75's and 3x 1's. (BD camalots).
    By Kelsey Sheely
    From: Flagstaff, AZ
    Feb 21, 2013
    rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

    Fun route, but I probably won't do it again. The chimney was quite a challenge to get into and helped to solidify my opinion of chimneys being heinous and obnoxious more than fun. The traverse on the 3rd pitch I thought was 10+ or I'm just getting weak over the winter. The 4th pitch was the funnest with a heady runout at the end. I definitely couldn't finish the boulder problem at the top either. If it weren't easy to aid up with the bolt right there, that single move would make this climb 5.11. Or maybe that's just cause I'm short.

    I found no need for anything bigger than a #1 camalot.
    By dave bingham
    Apr 4, 2013
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    Did the route with my 15 yr old son march '13. Awesome.

    Drive: made it maybe a mile from the hwy. with a VW van. 1.5 hrs from there to rope-up.

    Gear: We used "Best Moab Climbs"gear list - (and placed a lot of gear) but still had too many yellow and blue camalots. Not sure if we used a blue #3.

    4 pitches including the mini summit pitch (V3 for short folk). No reason to belay before the squeeze IMO. 3 raps with a single 70m worked well.

    Rating: Any route with a plus or minus is a sandbag! Our local 12c cave routes are easier than the crux of "Jah Man"...only kidding a little.
    By Max Shaffer
    May 18, 2013

    The road is obviously rough, but our Subaru Forester handled it like a champ. Granted we had to do some reconstruction in parts using boulders to fill in large holes...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Repairing the road...
    Repairing the road...

    I definitely didn't think the chimney pitch as all that scary. The squeezes on Kor-Ingalls were way worse. We did Jah Man in four pitches, not five. The 5.10+ crux on pitch 3 is well protected. I was actually surprised that there was a bolt... much less 2 bolts... The final face climbing scramble to the top might actually be the hardest part, which I thought was more like 5.10 than 5.9.
    By Chris Strouthopoulos
    From: Durango, Co
    Oct 22, 2013

    After about a 1/4 mile the road is now only passable by high clearance 4wd vehicles. The flash floods of this fall did a number on it.

    We were able to make it perhaps a mile in a TRD Tacoma to a pile of table sized rocks across the wash that stopped us and a Jeep Rubicon. I pride myself in the places I've taken a subie and wouldn't head up this wash in one unless I stole it.

    Appreciated the upgraded anchors by the way, especially at the top of the chimney. A big improvement over the old flexy fixed angles! Leaving the vintage hardware on the final pitch was a nice touch too.

    We took doubles to #2 with triple .75 and 1's and could protect roughly every body length. Could get away with a single #2 as it was only placed after the crux on fairly cruiser 5.8ish terrain.

    By Brandon Wolding
    Mar 10, 2014

    Climbed this route on March 10 2014 and left a black REI flash pack with medicine, a headlamp and a watch in it on the summit, somewhere near the center. I was super bummed to only realize I had forgotten it too late to go back and get it. If anyone would be kind enough to return it I would love to send you some beer money in exchange. Call me at 970 817 3376 or email at
    Thanks a bunch!

    Gear beta, 4 0.75's and 4 #1's, only need 1 #2 at most, otherwise a single rack is plenty. The pitches are short and the cruz sections are only a couple moves long.

    Killer climb, get on it!
    By DennisL
    From: Bishop, CA
    Apr 23, 2014

    Wonderful route! Link p1 and p2 for sure.

    I agree w 4 X .75, 4 X #1 for the second thin hands pitch. Microcams (I think I used yellow C3) and nuts help protect the squeeze chimney, which is so mellow you may not feel the need to protect it.
    By DennisL
    From: Bishop, CA
    Apr 23, 2014

    Late April 2014: Loaded Forester made it up the wash/road with few problems. There is an impassable set of boulders eventually. Plenty of places to park that are out of the wash and not on crypto.
    By Luke Mehall
    From: Durango, Colorado
    Oct 25, 2014

    Been working on replacing all the old 1/4 inch. bolts on this thing with beefy 1/2 inch bolts from the ASCA. We will be sure to yank em out too, at the moment they remain next to the replacements because we haven't carried a crow bar up yet. But, we will.

    Also: I'd say heavier on the #1 camalots than the .75s. I think as many as five or six #1s is useful on that third pitch.

    Praise Jah!
    By Dave Alie
    From: Golden, CO
    Feb 25, 2015

    Great route! The gear beta in this thread is pretty overwhelming so I'll resist adding another opinion except to say that I strongly recommend doing this route as two pitches.

    The first two historical pitches (to the top of the chimney) don't really require much gear so you (hopefully!) arrive at the start of the "third" pitch with almost the entire rack. Fire the crux, belay, then take it to the top of the tower. Rope management is easy, and due to the nature of the route (no need to sew up the chimney as the climbing is very secure), combining pitches doesn't require loads of extra gear. Pitching this out as five, or even four, sections is unnecessary for the vast majority of parties and no doubt contributes to Jah Man's clogged reputation.
    By Ryan Arnold
    Mar 30, 2015
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    Climbed this last Friday March 27. Saw one other party the whole day. Combined 1+2 very smoothly. Pitch 3 was tough shortly off the belay until you hit the stance in the corner halfway up, but the crux traverse is bolt protected. Pitch 4 is slightly overhanging (so is first half of pitch 3); you don't really realize it until you rap down and are dangling slightly away from the wall. I have small hands and was expecting slammer #1 camalot sized jams, but it was more .75 sized with features/face footholds, and not a lot of pure jamming. Pumpy! I thought pitch 5 was a one-move wonder 10a, easier to free than the second-to-last pitch of Stolen Chimney, and I'd definitely link it to pitch 4 next time.

    I used five camalot 0.75 and three camalot #1, plus one #2, one #3 (optional), and a selection of smaller cams. Three single rope raps with 70m to get down.

    Only made it 0.3 miles up the wash in a sedan. Scraped up my bumper, too. Next time I'll just park at the entrance.
    By Ball
    From: Oakridge, OR
    May 20, 2015

    A double rack to #2 with one extra .75 was fine. Didn't place any nuts, either. Not sure why there is a bolt on pitch 2 (it sent me the wrong way)
    By Marcus St Jolie
    From: Flagstaff, Arizona
    Jun 24, 2015

    Belay/rappel above pitch one is a bent piton and two bolts. one bolt is wiggly. the unnecessary crux traverse bolt is wiggly. Also wiggly is one bolt at the summit rappel (though I wouldn't really worry about that one). the crux is easier when you're wiggly too. I yoga'd a shoulder high heal hook in moccs.
    By Aaron Livingston
    From: Yosemite Valley, CA
    Sep 13, 2015

    Goes pretty well in two pitches for solid leaders. Ground up to the belay above the crux pitch and below the splitter thin hand crack (I think this is the 3rd belay if you count the tat at the squeeze). From there you can link up to the summit. Be advised you need a 70 meter rope. Also you can rap the tower in three raps with a single 70 m rope. Tie your ends!
    By Noah McKelvin
    From: Colorado Springs
    Sep 20, 2015
    rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

    We had some problems and had to cut a rope on the first rappel. Watch out on letting your rope go into the wide crack on the ledge before the summit. One ina million chance. ...but it happened to us
    By michael s...
    From: Denver, CO
    Oct 10, 2015

    Awesome. No reason for that bolt on the traverse. Didn't place anything larger than a #1 camalot.
    By kayah
    Oct 31, 2015

    Thinking about doing this route as a group of four. Bad idea? Is the summit big enough for four?
    By Perin Blanchard
    From: Orem, UT
    Oct 31, 2015
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    Rock Climbing Photo: Sister Superior summit.
    Sister Superior summit.

    Plenty big.
    By Mitch Friedeman
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 16, 2016
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    I can confirm that this route can easily be lead in two excellent pitches. Link the first two (chimney pitches) with the excellent 5.10 third pitch which ends on a pleasant belay ledge. Then linking the last two pitches is very easy and intuitive and should be done regardless since the last pitch is shorter and easy. Also the anchor on the summit is mediocre and could use a bit of a facelift. The newest bold up there is able to be pulled out of the rock by about 1/4 inch. Still safe but definitely a little sketchy.

    Super great route, with excellent exposure, fun tight hand jams, and a burly ass hike to warm you up.
    By Charlie S
    From: Ogden, UT
    Oct 13, 2016
    rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

    It was very nice to climb a tower and not feel like I was going to die. A change from North Six Shooter! One of the best overall experiences on a desert tower thus far.
    By The Blueprint Part Dank
    From: FEMA Region VIII
    Oct 29, 2016
    rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

    Well, having finally knocked this off my list, I am officially jealous of folks with smaller hands! I consider BD #3's to be a hand-crack size.... and so I was in for a rude awakening on Jah Man. The first 5.10+ pitch wasn't too bad, speed and decisive footwork got me through without much sweat. But then as I lead into the second 10+ pitch I got a RUDE awakening as I tried to shove my fat mitts into the crack. I didn't wear tape gloves, and I'm SUPER glad I didn't, or the paltry few solid(ish) jams I did get on the pitch would have been a no go.

    Had the crack on that pitch been just one inch wider, then this would probably be a top-five all time route for me, as the setting, rock quality and summit are just absolutely awesome! As is though, I will appreciate the climb's objective brilliance, but subjectively, some of my enjoyment was lost because of the unrelenting thin hands.

    That all being said, even if you have fat mitts like me, this remains an absolute can't miss classic... it's just going to be a hard one!
    By Gearoholic
    From: Portland, OR
    Apr 1, 2017

    Great overall climb. Didn't feel too exposed on this route. The approach wasn't as bad as it looks. The climb would have been a bit more fun for me if the hand crack was a little wider. I have average size hands and it was still just a bit too small for me. We brought 2x.5, 4x.75, 4x1, 2x2 and 1x3 and used pretty much all of it, but we sewed it up a bit. I thought the crux was getting off the deck on that 3rd pitch (awkward moves with bad feet and small hand crack above), not the traverse, and I'm 5'11". If you link pitches, beware of rope drag - we ended up down climbing and splitting the sections after the chimney into 2 pitches. Rappelling was a bit sketchy, but maybe I'm just not used to bolts that can be simply plucked out of the rock.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Taking in the view at the top of Jah Man while man...
    Taking in the view at the top of Jah Man while managing rope for rappel

    Rock Climbing Photo: Our team of 3 starting up the 3rd pitch (our secon...
    Our team of 3 starting up the 3rd pitch (our second) after the chimney. Definitely felt that crux was getting off the deck on that pitch, not the traverse.
    By David Champion
    From: Centennial, CO
    Apr 18, 2017

    Climbed Jah Man on 3/26/2017. Was shocked to discover the base of the P2 chimney has widened ~3 inches since the last time I did the route on 4/6/13. Back then, the crux of the pitch was getting into the chimney--a very tight squeeze, even for me at a lean buck-forty. This year I was able to waltz right into the thing.

    I shared my observation with a friend and fellow climber who is a geotechnical engineer. He gives the pillar that forms the chimney 10 years max before it calves, and thinks it could go at any time.

    To state the obvious, the loss of that pillar would change completely the nature of this climb, perhaps rendering it unclimbable (or at least a lot more difficult). Also to state the obvious, you don’t want to be anywhere near the tower when the thing goes, much less in the chimney itself (maybe consider using the tower side exclusively for pro on that pitch?).

    God speed.

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