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Wavebreak Wall
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Jagged Edge T 
Wave Break T 

Jagged Edge 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Brian, Vicki and Jonathan Smoot, 1989
Season: Fall
Page Views: 32
Submitted By: Ryan Brough on Nov 19, 2006

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Jagged Edge 5.8

Description 

Just as the name suggests, Jagged Edge climbs a narrow face of rock squeezed between two aretes, lightly seasoned with sections of sharp quartzite. This is heady for a 5.8 lead, mostly due to the shallow, thin and/or irregular placements. With a little creativity, this does not have to be runout. There are ample rests along the route and good feet will get you through the thin crack or crimps crux on the right side of the most vertical section near the top. Fun route and a great warmup for Wave Break (5.11a R) next door.

Location 

If the Wavebreak Wall were a book on a shelf, Jagged Edge would climb the spine. Rappel from the top of Wave Break (5.11a R) or walk off/downclimb very carefully to the north.

Protection 

Standard rack and a quickdraw for the lone piton mid-route. I used small brass to a #3 Camalot. There are anchors for Wave Break (5.11a R) at the top that can be shared. One is a rusty old buttonhead. The webbing was pretty old, so we added to it.


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By Nathan Fisher
May 11, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Great line with some great air, but as Ryan said it may not be for the 5.8 leader. I remember at the crux thinking, how good was my last piece because I didn't like the pieces at the crux. Good rock generally.
By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
May 3, 2008

My favorite 5.8 in Big Cottonwood Canyon! If you bring stoppers and some small brassies, the route protects nicely. Also bring some small to medium cams if you want. This would be an ultra-classic if it were longer.