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Jager Bomb 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Evan Wisheropp
New Route: Yes
Season: Dry Season
Page Views: 141
Submitted By: Evan Wisheropp on Jan 30, 2015

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Jager Bomb

Description 

Jager Bomb starts at the far left side of the cave to left (Southwest) of the bench and works its way up and right and exits the cave with excellent moves in a short dihedral on the upper right of the cave. After the short dihedral it meets up with the last bolt of Intimidation and tops out to a gear anchor of #1-2.

The route has exciting moves the entire way and pretty good gear--although still uncomfortably runnout in sections. It starts at a short dyno or long reach (can be skipped by stepping off the boulder), followed by a mantle out left and then a hand traverse right. The first crux is more mental than physical; move up into the roof after the traverse where you are now in ground fall zone with a back breaking pyramid rock below you (5.9 R+).

After learning more history on the area from Frank Jager, the name was decided as a tribute to his many other routes in the area. Also, because if you fall off the first crux, you'll bomb straight onto the backbreaker on the deck. The crack that follows the direct crack out of the roof is the Profanity Overhang A4.

Location 

Left around from the bench.

Protection 

Cams from .2-.75" and a set of micro nuts or a #1 ball nut.


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Rock Climbing Photo: Jager Bomb
Jager Bomb
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By Nick Black
From: Arcata, CA
Jul 3, 2015

fun route, didn't lead it, but you probably would want to fall off anywhere on the route. Crux was really awkward for a tall person
By Evan Wisheropp
Jul 4, 2015

The mental/physical crux for is definitely the awkward high step trying to reach the roof. It's a 5.7 traverse and one 5.9 move for the average size person.

The dihedral after the cave is totally safe; tricky and exciting! The overhanging face/crack at the end is also pretty intimidating with the ledge, but you can lessen the risk with a .3 a foot above the bolt.

The route is not a walk in the park, but rather a fantastic 50' adventure!!

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