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Jade Gate 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Matt Samet, Steve Dieckhoff
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,369
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Jul 19, 2001

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Jade Gate, showing the lower diagonal slashes lead...

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  • Description 

    Jade Gate is a 7-bolt 5.11 face climb to anchors on the lower (east) end of the long South Face of Seal Rock. It climbs huecos and horns to a distinct, pink-colored, ghost-shaped groove up high then exits past a big hueco/hole below the lip.

    This makes for a great warm-up for the harder climbs on the wall and has excellent grey-green Flatirons stone. Many thanks to Mark Roth et al. for turning it into a high-quality sport pitch and to OSMP and the FCC for making such projects possible.

    I made the original lead ground-up with no bolts after my friend Steve rappelled the line and brushed the holds up high, over the lip. I think I was on the route for 1 or 1.5 hours going up and down and up and down, trying to fish in gear. I remember being at that hueco for a long time, contemplating the marginally protected exit crux above. Hey, fun times!

    This is the "warm-up" route on the South Face of Seal Rock. It is towards the east end of the face behind the thick copse of pine trees and can be distinguished by its pink-colored, ghost-shaped groove up high. The pitch is about 60 feet long and finishes at a fixed sling on a loose horn over the lip of the slab. Back this anchor up with cams.

    Boulder up past good huecos and move left into a purple band to place some marginal gear. Crank right into the left-angling crack (good gear here - a #3 Camalot). Follow the crack up and left until it ends, then face climb up into the bottom of the pink groove. A hole at the top of the groove provides your final gear before the exit bulge.

    This pitch has potential for very serious falls in a few different spots.


    This now has 7 bolts and an anchor. Some may want a #2 or #3 Camalot between bolts 2 & 3 and a #4 before bolt 7.

    FORMER RACK (as a gear-only lead): The rack is a bit eclectic: Camalots 1-4 (2 #4s if possible), RPs, small tube chock (the red one) and a #1 Tri-cam.

    Comments on Jade Gate Add Comment
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    By steve dieckhoff
    Sep 30, 2001

    Matt led this on-sight in a very impressive effort. I think there is room for two #4 Camalots in that final hole and you may want to place them both!
    By Mark Roth
    From: Boulder
    Oct 22, 2016

    This now has 7 bolts and an anchor. If you are climbing at this wall, you will probably be comfortable with just quickdraws; however, there are a couple of gear placements between bolts that some may want to utilize.... A #2 or #3 Camalot between bolts 2 and 3 and a #4 before bolt 7.

    Thanks to OSMP for allowing new fixed hardware in the Flatirons, and thanks to Matt for allowing us mortals a chance to enjoy this fun line.

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