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Jack's Crack T 

Jack's Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jonathan Knight and Mike Mott 1998
Page Views: 62
Submitted By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones on Dec 8, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: On the approach. Either take the direct chimney to...


Jack's Crack climbs the pseudo-detached block on the prominent east face of the Blind Valley cliff. The rock quality starts out as absolutely abysmal but improves the higher you go. The first pitch offers an overhanging hand crack for a crux then a traverse right. Keep an eye out for the chains, they're not intuitive. Continue traversing right and then finish straight up to the chains on the left.

The route is rated as 5.8 in James Garrett's guidebook but a rating of 5.9 PG13 might be more appropriate for those considering the climb. A very crumbly start and some creative anchor placements on top of pitch 1 mean the possibility of a factor two fall on your belayer is real.


From the parking area the route is visible. Head northwest towards the crack but when you reach the cliff, skirt towards the north and climb up broken layers to reach the true start of the route. Coming up directly from the south in the chimney/gully will mean a difficult to protect 5.7 start until you reach the two bolt anchor at the base of the route.

The route can be rapped with a single 70m. A 60m should work as well. There is a two chain anchor at the very top of the route and a single chain anchor and bolt at the top of the first pitch. A couple more leaver biners would make for a convenient third rappel instead of the loose downclimb to the northwest.


Bring a full double set of cams. Triples in hand sizes wouldn't be a bad idea.

Photos of Jack's Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Blind Valley
BETA PHOTO: Blind Valley
Rock Climbing Photo: Rapping down the first pitch.
Rapping down the first pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Coming to the anchors on P1
Coming to the anchors on P1

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By Sam Cannon
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 10, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

The beginning to pitch 1 is very sandy and friable for several moves that are unprotectable and committing. Lots of loose rock so make sure and wear a helmet.

Despite this heads-up start I thought that there were some fun moments on the climb. The beginning to P2 is quite fun as is the middle/finish of P1. If you're climbing at the Cape, it could be worth the adventure.

A bit of an approach for the quality, but fantastic views from the route.

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