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After getting sandbagged...I decided to toss Rule No. 1 out the window.
This under appreciated route has an utterly miserable start in which you grasp at tiny holds and get nothing good to put your feet on. Thus you need to get JACKINATED! Jack up your feet every chance you get! On the day I finally sent this beast I started toe hooking around the right corner and jamming my right fist and right foot into a crack. I don't know if using the crack is "legal" or not but it worked.
After the fourth bolt you get a good rest. Down a Red Bull and start climbing up an arete that suffers from a split personality. LOOKS EASY! CLIMBS HARD! This route is full of HUGE PUMPY HOLDS involving BIG REACHES and weird footholds that require you to keep jacking those feet as high as you can get them.
I have never felt so stranded on such big holds...THIS ROUTE IS PRETTY COOL BUT VERY DIFFICULT TO READ! Be sure to avoid moving too far left or right near the last two bolts because of virile vegetation.
I LOVED IT AND HATED IT! Jackinated is not the best route at The Danks but it does deserve your sweat, blood and tears if you love a beat down followed by a struggle to the anchors. I've only got one more thing to say. This route is utterly UNONSIGHTABLE...and THAT is not even a goddamned word!
I've only got TWO MORE WORDS for you to read before I get too pissed to type...GET ON IT!
Leftmost climb on the Upper Danks Wall (also known as Original Danks or The Mary Jane Wall). Ya know that second trail with the sign...take that trail and your in there!
10 quickdraws. Stick clip the second bolt if you want to cruise through the beginning crux without wasting energy clipping. Be prepared for some good old fashion run outs between bolts in the second half of the climb.