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Jackin' the Johnson T,S 
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Unsorted Routes:

Jackin' the Johnson 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, Sport, Alpine, 8 pitches, 900', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Eli Helmuth/ Shane Wilder 7/21/06
New Route: Yes
Season: summer
Page Views: 5,111
Submitted By: Eli Helmuth on Aug 17, 2006

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On the crux second pitch - long runners below the ...

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This addition to the Second Buttress on Hallett combines a few old pitches with some new ones to create a striking line up this classic alpine rock face.

The 110' long second pitch is the crux as it ascends increasingly steeper, striped rock to a 5-bolt protected, pumpy section on the left side of the striking arete just 50' right of the classic Culp-Bossier. These are the only bolts on the route, not including the two originals encountered on the last pitch that is the finish of the Jackson-Johnson.

P1- 5.9 (20m) Climb the initially steep dihedral past some grassy sections then into a short offwidth corner which can be laybacked then from the first grassy ledges, traverse right to a 10' long splitter 0.75" crack which makes for a nice belay- the horn above has a sling on it as well. There is a green double sling as of 5/16/12.

P2 - 5.11 (35m) Climb straight up from the belay, past some loose rock into a wide section under a ceiling which is bypassed on the right by a quartz handrack. Follow this narrowing fissure to the end then left 10' and past a lost arrow which protects balancey moves up right onto the face and the first of 5 bolts through the crux climbing. Two 0.3 cams protect the slabby finish to the bolted anchors (60m rappel to the ground).

P3 - 5.7 (50m) Climb straight up from the anchor past a thin pin and then easier ground to intersect with the Jackson for a few feet, then continue straight up into a wide groove where the Jackson goes right.

P4 - 5.9 (40m) Steep cracks lead straight up to a big belay ledge on the big, quartzite band.

P 5- 5.10a (55m) Traverse left out of the belay on loose rock to an arching, right-facing corner. Pull the roof into the corner and follow this up then head straight out of the top of this crack where it arches right then 15m up to the start of the 61 meter ramp (This is probably P6 on the "Dark Side" route- Rossiter guide).

P6 - 5.9 (61m) Climb the right-angling "61 meter ramp" which is really cool and described as variation 13d in the Rossiter guide.

P7 - 5.9+ (60m) Climb a steep quartz crack out of the ramp end then back left into an obvious right-facing dihedral which is the Jackson-Johnson finish with two ancient bolts.

P8 - 5.7 (15m) A short and somewhat loose pitch takes you to the top.


This route starts just right of the Culp-Bossier, in the second small dihedral to the right (about 50') of the CB start, which is the same as for the Love, Englishman's, and Jackson-Johnson routes, also. The second pitch climbs on the east aspect of an obvious and striking prow with the belay ledge right on top of the prow. The direct start to the JJ starts in the major dihedral system 100' to the west of this prow. Recommended descent is down the east ridge to the rappels. No fixed anchors other than the 2nd pitch are available, so retreat could be a costly endeavor.


A standard rack to #3 Camalot, doubles of all sizes down to a 0.25 Camalot and extra shoulder length and double-shoulder-length slings are helpful. Five bolts and two pins protect the crux second pitch which ends at a nice ledge on a prow- this is the only pitch with new fixed hardware other than one pin on the start of the third pitch.

Photos of Jackin' the Johnson Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo of the second buttress on the north face of H...
BETA PHOTO: Topo of the second buttress on the north face of H...
Rock Climbing Photo: Heading into the business on P2.
Heading into the business on P2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Near the end of the 61 meter ramp.
Near the end of the 61 meter ramp.
Rock Climbing Photo: One of the original bolts from the Jackson-Johnson...
One of the original bolts from the Jackson-Johnson...
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux pitch on the Jackson Johnson in evening l...
The crux pitch on the Jackson Johnson in evening l...
Rock Climbing Photo: The quartz cracks of pitch four with the right-fac...
The quartz cracks of pitch four with the right-fac...
Rock Climbing Photo: Shane pulling the final bulge onto the slab of the...
Shane pulling the final bulge onto the slab of the...

Comments on Jackin' the Johnson Add Comment
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By Kirill Kireyev
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 23, 2008

We could not find this route for the life of us. Any beta would be appreciated.
By John F
From: Bolder, Co
Aug 2, 2008
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

There is only one fixed pin on the 2nd pitch now.
By Brett Merlin
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 13, 2015

First hold at first bolt broke a little. Doesn't change the grade though. Didn't find the two 0.3 Camalot placements after bolt 5. A 0.4 Camalot placement worked really well though. Really cool route, route finding wasn't too bad.
By Ken Duncan
From: Ft Collins, CO
Jul 30, 2015
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Four star second pitch but only two stars on the rest of the route, so three stars overall. Great second pitch!
By Greg Miller
Jul 24, 2017

Any beta for a good rack to take?
By garrett knorr
Aug 20, 2017

Got off route from the Culp and followed a dirty dihedral up to the belay before P5 of this route. Followed this the rest of the way up. Can't speak for the first 4 pitches of it, but the rest is awesome, great exposure.

Beta: DO NOT go up from an awesome, recessed belay ledge (we called it lunch ledge) halfway through the "61m ramp," keep going right. We fortunately did not go up from there, but we saw rap slings a little ways up from people going up here and having to come back down. From there, the route was pretty obvious.

The rack we brought was a beefy set of nuts, BD c4s 0.3-3 with doubles of 0.3, 0.75, 1, and 2. Some smaller cams would have been nice, and a heavier rack would have helped us shorten the climb into the 8 pitches (we did it in more like 11).

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