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Jackalope  

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85', Grade VI
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Dallen Ward, Bryce Perkins
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 533
Submitted By: zoso on Jun 22, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: A rare sighting of the mythical Jackalope. Unkn...

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  • Description 

    This crack doesn't look like much but it's surprisingly worthy. Once the crack terminates, follow 3 bolts up the slab to a chain anchor.
    This is a direct line to Sasquatch etc, or you can rap with a 60m.

    Location 

    This is right around the corner from Pentapitch on the way to Loch Ness Monster (and eventually The Industrial Wall). Drop yer pack at the first crack you see on your left. Obvious, not mythical like the Great American Jackalope.

    Protection 

    Small to large nuts and a small cam/TCU. 3 draws. Bomber gear.


    Comments on Jackalope Add Comment
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    By zoso
    Jun 22, 2017

    You can also throw a TR on the slab to the left of this for ~40 feet of 5.9ish entertaining slabbin.
    By Scott Morris
    From: Bountiful, Utah
    Jul 19, 2017
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    This one was just plain fun. A couple of small nuts (BD #4 or equivalent) are ideal for protecting the thinning crack as you transition onto the slab prior to reaching the first bolt. Good route!
    By Spencer Parkin
    From: Bountiful
    Jul 29, 2017
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    This is one of the very few climbs I can actually lead in all of LCC. I would say the crack is closer to 5.6 and the upper part is 5.4. You could use this climb to get to the chains at the top of the first pitch of Pentapitch.
    By BrokenChairs
    From: Seattle
    Aug 14, 2017

    Grade VI IN THE WASATCH!!!!

    and all this time I thought Dogwood was the El Cap of the Wasatch. What is the best way to haul on this route? Are there any good bivy spots?

    In all seriousness is this even an actual route? I always thought it was just the way to beat people to the Sasquatch start when there's a queue at Penta.
    By zoso
    Aug 14, 2017

    Maybe it's somewhat similar, but better than this:

    mountainproject.com/v/10766917...

    But it's still a good route for beginners. It's actually OK to have EZ routes even if one is a world class climber.
    By greggrylls
    6 days ago

    If you follow the bolt line it's 5.6 or 7 slab probably 5.6L for lichen right now. Short but fun.

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