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Jack Torrance 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: MJM & RAMM, 8/2010
Page Views: 180
Submitted By: MJM on Aug 15, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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Description 

A tricky lieback start with pretty thin feet will get you to a blocky stance. Follow the long gray groove on really good holds and steepening rock to a right-trending short crack. This tricky crux section with edges and an out-of-sight great jug just above C7 will move you left through this section with a bit of run to C9. Continue with easier climbing to a ledge at C10. Climb straight up past 1 clip to the hard-to-clip anchors.

Location 

Kubrick's left, hike along the wall upstream/uphill past Lady Lyndon. At the top to the trail, Jack Torrance is the third route.

Protection & Vitals 

11 clips to ring anchors.


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By davedad
From: Carbondale, CO
Jul 8, 2014

Any new 5.10s in the canyon are welcome. This one is a bit dirty. It also has surprisingly awkward movement.
By Jeremy Kasmann
From: Denver, CO
Jul 20, 2014

Needs some traffic - really dirty and a lot of loose rock.
By Eric Carlos
From: GJ
Sep 20, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I didn't experience any loose rock, but it was a bit dirty. Definitely worth doing and a fun climb. The rock is pretty bomber, but some have a bit of dirt and dust on it.

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