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(8) Old School Wall
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L to R R to L Alpha
Big Dipper T 
Bulge, The T,TR 
Flayel Bop T 
Jack the Ripper T 
Little Dipper T 
Mountaineer's Route T 
Orion S 
Outshined T 
Pandora's Box S 
Pisa T,TR 
Piton Variation  S 
Queasy T 
Ripper T 
Rusty Cage T 
Standing Ovation S 
Stigmata T 

Jack the Ripper 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Topher Dabrowski/Benjamin Grandy
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 697
Submitted By: Micah Klesick on Oct 1, 2014  with updates from Topher Dabrowski and 1 more

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: Middle of Jack the Ripper. Piton Variation is just...

Description 

Climb up Ripper (5.9) and once on the ledge, there is a very short crack to your left. Continue up the crack to the next ledge and place a cam under the large boulder. Stem up and on top of the boulders to start up the steeper wall with good holds and 4 bolts. This route shares top anchors with Orion.

Protection 

Mixed route with gear to 1.25" and 4 bolts.


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By Topher Dabrowski
May 17, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This route used to stop at the second ledge/belay for Orion and was called Full Jack, Ben & I put that up on June 14, 2014. Then on 5.16.2016 I added 4 bolts and pushed the line to the finish at Orion's top anchors and called it Jack The Ripper.

BD 0.3-1.0 cams & Offset Nuts
By Micah Klesick
Administrator
From: Vancouver, WA
May 21, 2016

Great route, Offset nuts aren't needed, as it protects quite well with a standard rack
By Byron Marohn
From: Portland, OR
Aug 14, 2016
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13

The newly extended route makes for a cool direct line with minimal rope drag from Ripper. You can definitely link ripper into Jack the Ripper to the top anchor with a 70m.

I'd agree with the 10b rating to the Orion ledge. However I'm pretty sure the top section (which is currently *really* dirty) is slightly harder than Orion. Maybe it was just the dirt...

I'm giving this PG13 because I don't like how high the first bolt is on the top sport section. The Orion anchor is way too far off to the side to use it with any length sling, and the first bolt is a good 15 feet above a ledge with no good trad gear placements. If you fell getting to the first bolt (a 5.8 move I'd say), it'd be really ugly. An intermediate bolt at the ledge would at least keep you from rolling off all the way back to the top of ripper...

Worth doing even as it is now - and bring a brush!

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