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Pat and Jack Pinnacle
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Jack Pinnacle, Left 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Tom Gerughty and Dave Calfee (June '64)
Page Views: 224
Submitted By: Bryan G on Apr 5, 2011

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


Jack Pinnacle is the taller spire that sits between Pat Pinnacle and the main cliff face. We climbed this route starting from the notch between the two pinnacles. See the approach beta and pitch 1 of Pat Pinnacle for getting to the notch. There is likely a direct route that begins further down on the left side of the spire and ascends the chimney system but I don't know how one would approach it.

From the notch you will want to do a short pitch to reach a smaller ledge on the left side of Jack Pinnacle. Chimney between the two formations and scramble up. The anchor here takes a bomber #4 Camalot in the crack to the right of the chimney, and you can also get some smaller gear behind some questionable flakes.

From the ledge, chimney up through a pod that pinches down into an off-width and forces you out. There is a piton here and some solid cam placements from fingers to hands. The crux (5.9) is the last little bit and you're sure to get a face full of lichen as you struggle up the dirty crack. Above that, you'll be on a nice flat ledge between Jack Pinnacle and the main wall. It's an easy, but somewhat wide, 20ft chimney finishing with a mantle onto the summit (5.4 R/X). There are also new bolts on the east arete of the spire (directly above the Right Side route). But the face climbing up the arete looks hard (probably 5.10+ or harder) and I was unable to reach out and clip the bolts while in the chimney.

Rap from the summit (good bolts) down to the notch. From the notch follow the descent beta for Pat Pinnacle


A light rack to 4" will get you up the final pitch, but you will probably want some bigger cams for the approach pitches.

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By Phil Esra
Nov 10, 2014

I believe the bolts on the left (east) arete of the final 20' chimney are specifically for this line--see the topo on this site for Super Slacker Highway. Easy to clip them from the leftmost part of the chimney--I don't know if the chimneying is harder over here than further right, but it's still quite easy. A bolted chimney in Yosemite? Shhhhhh....

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