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Jack Knife 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
Page Views: 6,694
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Oct 12, 2006

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Jacknife makes a great solo romp

Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset MORE INFO >>>


Jack Knife is the prominent cleft in the large boulder at the top of the purple climber’s trail, just left of Orient Express. It is undoubtedly one of the best 5.5s in the park and provides the most direct access to Cave Crack on the wall above. Climb a short face to a low angle, right-angling hand/fist crack. The crack is a lot of fun, protects well, and has positive hand and fist jams all the way to the top. The crux is a slightly steeper section about two-thirds of the way to the top. Two rappel bolts are located at the top of the rock on a small summit block.


Light rack with a couple of medium sized cams.

Photos of Jack Knife Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Midway through Jack Knife.
Midway through Jack Knife.
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper Jack Knife
BETA PHOTO: Upper Jack Knife
Rock Climbing Photo: Base of Jackknife.
BETA PHOTO: Base of Jackknife.

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By Jake T
From: Prescott AZ
Jun 10, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Easiest and fastest appraoch to "Cave Crack" Also protects easily. There is a 5.9 sport slab route that shares the base of this climb for a little variety in the same general area.
By nicktucker
From: Portland, OR
Oct 3, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

My first trad lead ever, and my buddy roped the gri gri through backwards. It was emotional
By BigFeet
From: Texas
Jul 13, 2014

First trad lead climb ever and it was awesome! Left camera in gear pack at bottom boulder. Damn!

Medium size gear used. Three cams (Dragon, Demon, and an Omega), one BD stopper, and a hex (because I had one). Right anchor hanger spins still, but the bolt is solid.

On rappel; From top anchor looking down, throw rope slightly left and over bulge above where the crack starts to turn. This will help avoid rope stuckage suckage and allows last half of the rappel to be down a vertical face! :)

Climb safe and double check yourself!
By Christopher Smith
May 2, 2017

A bunch of rotten stuff at the bottom flaked off recently. The pro has changed in that spot and the move getting into the ramp (essentially the crux) just got a little harder. I've been hearing 5.6 and 5.7 for the upgraded grade on it with this change. Personally I put it as a 5.6 now.

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