|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||Gary Lee Hicks & Florian Walchak, Winter of mid-1970s|
|Season:||Fall, Winter, Spring|
|Submitted By:||Bill Lawry on Jan 7, 2012|
|Comments on Jack in the Box||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Gary Lee Hicks
Jul 10, 2015
Hey Naldo :o) I recently came across Mtn Project and haven't yet made a full scan of all the routes but am trying to correct/update/ add to everything I can remember and also give credit to people who were with me on various ascents of routes we did not submit to Mike Hill for his guide book.
This "Left Tower" as it is called here was 1st done by Florian Walchak and myself sometime in winter in the mid 1970-s. We followed the crack left where the photo shows a red line going right. We finished up the wide vertical crack after a short traverse from the red line marking Jack in the Box going right.
It's quite probable that we placed quarter inch bolts to rap off. As I remember none of us started using 3/8 inch bolts until the 1980-s.
Florian dropped one of his BLUE Dachstein mittens into a crack along the south side of this formation and if only we had had a fishing pole and a hook we might have retrieved it ! I wonder if anyone has ever found it or has seen it inside the 4 or 5 inch crack it has been residing in for the past 40 yr-s !!! LOL
I would be curious to know what you mean by "modern rap anchors". Thanks Buddy
By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Jul 10, 2015
Thank you, Gary. I've updated the FA-ist part and the description.
By "modern rap bolts" I mean something other than what I was afraid we'd find up there such as a corroded version of the quarter-inch kind you mentioned - no offense intended - or find nothing.
The current bolts / hangers are fat and shine-y.
I'm hesitant to ask about the name "Naldo" - hopefully it's that Brazilian, versatile, two-footed, good-looking central defender. ;-)