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Jac Mac (closed) 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: P.Jarrard, M. Williams, 1990
Season: Any
Page Views: 1,066
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 6, 2006

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This route closed to climbing and is included for historical purposes only.

This climb was once largely considered the "yardstick" 11d for Red River. Anythng easier was 11c, anything harder was a 5.12.
Over time, there were rumors of a second knee-bar rest that made the climb easier, then a third, then a fourth...
Eventually the "5-kneebar beta" was sprayed around, and although I tried to find all five, I stuck with 2 or 3, figuring the others to be both unneccesary and harder to get than just climbing the route.
Regardless, climb up through fantastic holds on wildly steep rock to the anchors- copping whatever rests work for you.


Just past the distinctive and mega-steep corner of BeeneStalker the route Thirsting Skull goes up a bulging prow. Just right of that, the next line, Jack Mac climbs a very steep wall on many pockets, some of them stunningly close to perfectly round.


5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

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