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YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Knight, Croft 1978
Page Views: 2,445
Submitted By: Jeremy on May 26, 2008

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Top of the thin section

Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>


A bouldery low crux leads to a nice technical finger crack.


The route starts on the upper tier of the smoke bluff wall.


Standard rack to 3/4 in.

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By brat
Jul 6, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Might be easier than .10b if you're taller.
By Adrian Lazar
Jun 21, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I think this is more of a .10a climb as Squamish Guide suggests. This grade would be appropriate for this gem of a climb, even for shorter ppl like me@5'7'' :) as the climb eases off after the bouldery start.
By Mark van Eijk
Jul 10, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I imagine it helps to be tall for the start, but I still wouldn't call the opening moves 10a. When compared to other local benchmarks for the grade (p1 of exasperator, the zip) this is certainly a step up in difficulty. Felt harder than the start to seasoned in the sun to me. Difficulties definitely fade after the first 10 feet, but the climbing is still very fun.
By SHOPE Christian
From: Corvallis, OR
May 23, 2014

Don't be worried about having enough cams, I only placed two and used nuts for the rest of the route.
By soz Zhong
Aug 1, 2015

at 5'4" i found the start to be extremely puzzling. short person beta:

reach your right hand around the side to find two small sidepulls, then put your left hand in the shallow crack and bear hug the rock up until you can reach the hand jam in the first deep part of the crack.
By Joshua Thompson
From: Seattle, Washington
Jul 17, 2017
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I'm 5'6" and I seriously struggled with the start. I know a lot of people will disagree, but for me it was harder than a 10-. If I was wearing brand new Miura's with a crispy new toe, it would have helped. Even though I struggled with the first few feet, the climb is awesome!

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