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Jabba 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c C1

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, Alpine, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Peter Prandoni & Ken Trout, 1985
Season: summer
Page Views: 1,723
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Mar 14, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Route topo.

Description 

On the first ascent the start felt slimy; like Jabba the Hutt from the movie The Empire Strikes Back (opened 1985).

There are two good rest stances that divide the route into three rounds. Almost every move feels 5.10.

The first round starts after 20 feet of 3rd class approach. Begin the real climbing with big reaches past tundra clumps. Then a finger crack leads to a reach right into the main crack. Finally, sustained finger jams and laybacks end at the first rest stance.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Cichon makes the long reach, 2013.
Mike Cichon makes the long reach, 2013.


The second round is the shortest. Awkward and thin hands lead to the second rest stance, just below the crux.

The third round liebacks a leaning thin flake. It starts with cool holds to assist. Beware, the holds get worse and getting to the anchor is tough.

There is a bolt anchor at 40m for lowering off, but leave the gear in for any followers. Some downclimbing is necessary when lowering with a single 70 meter rope.

LINCOLN LAKE ROUTE SUMMARY TOPO
Rock Climbing Photo: Beta.
Beta.


Location 

Belay in the grass and flowers at the toe of the buttress. It is the second route down, from the left side approach (red on photo).

Protection 

Lots of cams to #2 Camalot (gold), some like stoppers too, especially for the start.

Per Jason Kaplan: if done as an aid route: a set of nuts in the mid to large size range (might have been easier with a better variety and possibly more, but I had lost my small to mid size set recently), a set of sliding nuts, doubles from blue Alien through #3 Camalot (yellow and red TCUs I found to be quite useful and I was wishing I had more of, I had 3 in the red size) I also ended up using the pink and red tricams I had, a lot in the fingers to 0.75 range. Hybrid Aliens were nice, wished I had 2 sets and full sets at that, not just singles of green through red (I think that would probably make this thing c1). #8 BD hex was useful (or 3 #2 Camalots), I found a 3.5 and #4 Camalot worked well in one pod together. Be careful topping out, you use a flake that seems a little questionable. Tread lightly!


Photos of Jabba Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jabba is labeled in the upper right and hard to se...
BETA PHOTO: Jabba is labeled in the upper right and hard to se...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jabba, such an inviting line....
BETA PHOTO: Jabba, such an inviting line....
Rock Climbing Photo: Almost topped out, at the flake.
Almost topped out, at the flake.
Rock Climbing Photo: Out from under the rocks finally! Once I back clea...
Out from under the rocks finally! Once I back clea...
Rock Climbing Photo: Just starting to get soaked, it got wet enough I e...
Just starting to get soaked, it got wet enough I e...
Rock Climbing Photo: More soaking and worrying about lightning, eventua...
More soaking and worrying about lightning, eventua...
Rock Climbing Photo: Working on pulling some gear to make upward progre...
Working on pulling some gear to make upward progre...
Rock Climbing Photo: A bit higher up after the traverse running it out ...
A bit higher up after the traverse running it out ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Traversing from left to right.
Traversing from left to right.
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting established after the bushes. The weather ...
Getting established after the bushes. The weather ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Just getting to the base of the route.
Just getting to the base of the route.

Comments on Jabba Add Comment
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By Lisa Montgomery
From: Golden, CO
Aug 3, 2016
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Excellent! Jabba is one of the best granite crack climbs I've done on the Front Range. Great rock, long, interesting, and continuous - it's full value.

Gear recommendation: 2 x green Alien - #2, opt. #3, medium-large nuts, opt. extra red Alien and #0.5 Camalot.

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