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J. Wellington Wimpy
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Balcony Rock
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Bluto's Bluster T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Brutus TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cliff Monster T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Cookie Monster T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Crown Of Thorns T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gold Medallist T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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J. Wellington Wimpy TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Olive Oyl T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Poopdeck Pappy TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Popeye's T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Popeye's Left T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Professor Watasnozzle TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sweet Pea T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Thumb Press T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thumb Press Right T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Train Song TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | TR, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | David Carrier and Ben LaCour |
| Page Views: | 1,054 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | David Carrier on May 12, 2015 |
| Admins: | Frances Fierst, C S |
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Description
The route starts about 20 feet right of Brutus and just left of a large stone block at the base of the cliff. Work your way up to the dihedral, using finger cracks and crimps. The crux is getting above the blank face and roof to jugs just above. Follow the dihedral to the top, pulling through a couple small roofs along the way.
Protection
Toprope anchor on the big block to climber's right of the large ledge 10' below the top, using a very long static line. You can use this same anchor for all routes from Popeye's to Olive Oyl. Be sure your master point hangs over the lip to avoid abrasion and rope drag. Rappel down so you can redirect the rope around the appropriate blocks and notches. You may want to sling the pine tree to redirect the rope and avoid a nasty pendulum fall.
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