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J Rat's Back 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dario Ventura, 2007
Season: Most
Page Views: 1,794
Submitted By: David Strawser on Jun 6, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (46)
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1st bolt is out of frame, the crux section is betw...

Recently Purchased in 2017 by the RRGCC.


This is the leftmost bolted route on the vertical wall visible as you approach the cliff. Climb slotted pockets to reach a distinct crux section. Continue up to a short overhanging pockets section just before the chains.


This is the leftmost bolted route on the vertical wall visible as you approach the cliff


10 Bolts. Chains

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Rock Climbing Photo: J Rat's Back 5.12a
BETA PHOTO: J Rat's Back 5.12a

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By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 31, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This route will improve with more traffic and possibly increase the number of stars. The rock is very solid up through the crux, but there are many yet friable edges for feet that you must be careful with. Although the crux is distinct, the climbing above still keeps you on your toes as you reach the final overhanging section.
By Meaghan Nelson
From: Mount Vernon, IN
Nov 4, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Awesome cruxy climb. It sounds like it has cleaned up well from a few years ago. Everything seems pretty solid; some of the rock on the overhang does appear to be the most inspiring but it's fine.
By Andrew G
From: Silver Spring, MD
Oct 27, 2014

Really fun movement on great pockets. I don't have a lot of basis for this, but seems like it might be a bit soft for the grade.

Update on the location-- there are two bolted lines to the left of J Rat's Back on this section of wall.
By Jim Lawyer
May 5, 2015

The crux is a really big move, or more probably a dyno after the 4th bolt. If you move left, you can avoid this crux staying on big holds, perhaps reducing the grade a bit.
By M.Ish
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 28, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Route has cleaned up well over the years. No friable feet or hands the whole way up. Distinct, fun, v3 crux at the 4th bolt. Excellent climbing, don't miss the no hands rest halfway for the push to the chains.
By Gene Beiermann
Dec 17, 2016

I loved this climb. The lower pocketed/slotted section was fun big movement toward a middle crux. Even going right at the crux this is a one move wonder with a satisfying easy jug haul for the last few bolts. The grade, going right or otherwise, likely could be 11c/d. The lower fun/reachy moves in front of the crux and the pump factor can justify the 11d/12a rating. A must-do at the wall, welcome soft grade compared to the sandbagged classic 10's to the right.

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