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The Crow's Nest
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J-boat 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: mark sprague 2000
Page Views: 783
Submitted By: lee hansche on Aug 25, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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After my first trad lead! Now, I think I am really...

Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Not a wonderfully memorable climb but one you could do as you get used to trad climbing. I find that if you can place gear well at Rumney, you can place it almost anywhere. It can be pretty funky at times but if you take the time and practice you will find what you are looking for and learn a lot.

Basically the crux is a short section at the bottom. If done directly I feel like it might be a bit stiff, but it goes pretty easy if you start to the left and traverse right to the ramp. The ramp is easy slab. Take the time to find the gear and you will have a good time, and don't forget to enjoy the view.

At the top of the ramp is an anchor which you can lower off above Sea Sick.

Location 

The cracked ramp heading up and right on the left end of the cliff. Tops out above and lowers off of Sea Sick 5.11c

Protection 

Normal trad rack does the trick. Lower from anchors. The gear can be tricky and not always reliable, so this route may not be good for inexperienced leaders.


Photos of J-boat Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: My first trad lead! Very memorable! Dirty top!
My first trad lead! Very memorable! Dirty top!

Comments on J-boat Add Comment
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By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Oct 27, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I think if cleaned this could be a very good climb, but in its dirty state its a one star climb for sure
By Eli
From: Lives in a truck
Jul 21, 2015
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

The crux of this route is definitely finding placements that are better than marginal.

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