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Ivory Tower  

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Turecki '88
Page Views: 393
Submitted By: L. Von Dommelheimer on Sep 8, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: The Ivory Tower

Description 

This route is climbs a beautiful white tower of rock with roofs, hard cryptic moves, and the potential for big air. Despite having been established years ago, it needs some traffic to clean up, the granite seems to be exfoliating quite a lot. Climb onto the face, move towards jugs on the arete than move up towards a ledge. pass a pin and a bolt, move left at a roof, on the left side of the roof is bolt. Climb through the roof through to an open book and continue to the anchor.

This route was given a grade of "solid 5.11" when described to Kelsey Gray for inclusion in the guidebook, however the movement on this route and the size of holds are of a harder grade and those who have attempted to climb the route, believe that grade is much much harder (myself included). There are several biners on bolts for your bailing convenience, right now at bolts two and bolt four I believe.

The anchor on this needs some TLC, bring some tat and rap rings.

Location 

This route is located to the right of Route 66. Follow the path right towards physical attraction, look for bolts on a white face.

Protection 

5 or 6 bolts, a pin and some small fixed gear supplement with gear to 1 inch or so.


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By The Shocker
Sep 8, 2014

FA by Turecki. While the "guidebook" gives it a rating of 5.11d, anyone that actually climbs the route would know it is mid 5.12. Similar to the disconnect from accurate information contained throughout said "guidebook". Would be a classic with twice as many bolts at any other area.
By L. Von Dommelheimer
Administrator
From: Anchorage
Sep 8, 2014

This route seemed well bolted to me. It was also my understanding that the guide's rating was given to Kelsey by Turecki (aka blame Turecki for this inaccurate grade). Generally lack of adequate information from old school climbers, and a strange elitist attitude on the part of Alaskan climbers seem to play the greatest role in inaccuracies in the guidebook. Rather than complain, why not let authors know when information is incorrect in a polite manner? It's more constructive than always trying to pick fights with those who are trying to improve information for other climbers.
By Griswald
Sep 9, 2014
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Hard for the grade. However, it has been a long time since I have been on this one.
By The Shocker
Sep 9, 2014

Good point. Nothing like recent FIRSTHAND information to insure accuracy. Of course, failing to obtain that, one can always blame inaccuracy on "elitist old climbers" that established the routes decades previously and weren't around to hold your hand when you decided to write a "guidebook". Good job on actually climbing the route... That is what it takes to get firsthand accurate information... I believe it is a fixed circle head mid-way up, not a stopper?
By Griswald
Sep 10, 2014
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

"a strange elitist attitude on the part of Alaskan climbers seem to play the greatest role in inaccuracies in the guidebook."


Just remember you create your own reality.
By L. Von Dommelheimer
Administrator
From: Anchorage
Dec 10, 2014

So does anyone mind if I change the rating to the consensus of midrange 5.12? Seeing as that is the more accurate grade?

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