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Ivory Snow T 
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Pillow Talk T 

Ivory Snow 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Paul Davidson and Jim Haisley
Page Views: 1,206
Submitted By: Will Cobb on May 22, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Ivory Snow is the first splitter crack right of Pillow Case. It starts off fingers then grows to thin hands. When the angle eases off the crack pinches down and face moves put you near the top. Finish on a broken crack to the canyon rim.

I have seen this route rated anywhere from 5.10- to 5.11-. The start is hard, consisting of fingers with OK feet. Once past the first 20' the moves start to flow.


A few Stoppers
TCU's with doubles of Yellow Metolius Size
.5 - #2 Camalot

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By JJ Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 22, 2007

Hard to grade for sure... Using some hooks on the arete to the left makes is easier. Fun and worth it despite its diminuitive size...
By Kole DeCou
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 23, 2007

Personally I think this climb is harder than Davidson's Dihedral just to the left. More on par with Mutiny. It may be just a boulder problem, but its a damn hard boulder problem.
By Larry Coats
Oct 28, 2007

Just for a little historical perspective- this was one of the Forks climbs that was put up pre-TCU's (smallest cam at the time was the #1 Friend). So Paul protected the crux on wired hexentrics and wired SMC Camlocks (anybody ever see one of these- funky!).
By Dean Hoffman
May 22, 2008

I heartily agree with JJ and Kole, this is damn hard for 10+. But is nice to climb when you're looking for more on the pillow wall.
By Paul Davidson
Aug 14, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

We didn't call it 10+ on the FA.
11+ was closer to what the actual moves felt like by the time I had gear placed I was willing to lead off. SMC cam locks can be tricky to place (as I recall anyway.) Took a couple of falls (not falls, burn outs from placing gear and lowering.) At that time I was not falling on 10+ cracks. I think this 10+ thing came from Toula's Cheap guide. Don't know if he'd climbed it though or instead just looked at it and rated it. Looks like 10+ might be right.

My overall rememberance of this crack is that it pissed me off. It looks like a "reasonable" forks finger crack. bwaaa ha ha ha, woke us right up with its difficulty. kinda painful I seem to recall.

Something for forks junkies though. (BTW - Jim and Tim would need to chime in on this, but it seems like I did this with Tim belaying me.)

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