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I've got some good news, and some bad news 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,829
Submitted By: Bruce MacLachlan on Sep 9, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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BETA PHOTO: Route overview

Description 

There is only one really good hold on the overhang, feel around or just go for it and try your luck.

Location 

Not in the Exit38 guidebook. Left of Ellie's Sweet kiss (10a). The route goes up and over the overhang and then it's a stroll to the chains.

Protection 

Bolts and chains


Photos of I've got some good news, and some bad news Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Clipping the last bolt before the roof. Fun climb,...
Clipping the last bolt before the roof. Fun climb,...
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting moves
Starting moves
Rock Climbing Photo: Roof
Roof
Rock Climbing Photo: Roof.
Roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: Left of Ellie's Sweet kiss (10a). The route goes u...
BETA PHOTO: Left of Ellie's Sweet kiss (10a). The route goes u...

Comments on I've got some good news, and some bad news Add Comment
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By Frank Sosa
From: Washington
Jan 12, 2010

Yeah worked on this with Leland W. in 08. It was bolted on lead/A0, in the rain, wind and a 35 degree winter day so yeah some of em are close together.. but they all ended up being good placements for leading. The start is tricky especially for shorties like me. I was torn on the grade to give it really.... Leland wanted to call it 11a and I thought it had some hard 10+ moves. So far the general concensus is 10c/d. Super fun short route, the roof pull makes it worth it. Called "Hurricane" I'd like to hear what more people think... cheers
By Scott Heinz
Jun 6, 2010
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

Hey Frank,

Climbed this yesterday and came across this post looking for the rating. I would agree with the c/d rating, although short. Two really fun cruxes with the first being hardest. The roof pull was really fun, and reminded me of the Bone in Leavenworth.

thanks for setting it.
By Frank Sosa
From: Washington
Dec 31, 2010

Hey thanks Scott. Haven't visited the site for some time. Ya the first moves are definetly the toughest on this route. Im glad Leland dragged me out there to put it up.
By ahd
From: San Jose, CA
Aug 2, 2015
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The same as Hurricane.
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
From: Bellingham, WA
Aug 2, 2015

What do you mean?

The same type of climbing or is this another name for the same route?
By Andrew Davidson
From: Everett, WA
Aug 17, 2015
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Jon, Was just out there and will confirm that this is the same route as Hurricane, just named differently.
By Sergey Shelukhin
From: Seattle, WA
Sep 10, 2016
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Fun route! The bottom moves are very easy if you are tall, but going over the edge of the roof is very hard. I ended up just throwing myself over and crawling sideways, cause there was no way to compress my legs to anywhere on the edge with my arms still on the same edge (or maybe I didn't find THE good hold past the lip).

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