REI Community
Upper Infirmary Slabs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Admission Crack T,TR 
Air Apparent T 
Community Service (formerly Little Flatiron Left aka West Buttress) S,TR 
Cracked Lens T 
Cyberchondrial Paranoia S 
Emergency Entrance T,TR 
Haradrim T 
IV League T,TR 
Merit Based Pay T,S 
Mûmakil T 
Nocturnal Emissions  TR 
Panic in the Gray Room S,TR 
Remission S,TR 
Submission T 

IV League 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,735
Submitted By: Jim Cormier on Aug 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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If you like slick flared granite OW, then this is ...


This is a nice offwidth which is a bit tougher than Admission Crack. It is more flared and tougher to protect.


Large cams (up to #5 Camalot), this route can be toproped from the tree (which may not have slings) in the crack up above.

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Rock Climbing Photo: Gino following.
Gino following.
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By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 10, 2002

This is a fun crack, and I would not call it an offwidth. There is good hand jamming through the crux. It is however somewhat awkward, polished and slippery. You do not need any pro larger than a #3.5 Camalot, and in fact the crux section is #2 Camalot or smaller.
By Charles Danforth
From: L'ville, CO
Apr 24, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Tough climb, but crack jamming is not my forte. My pointy shoes got horrendously stuck on several moves.

FYI: the slings at the top of this route are pretty badly frayed or even cut. Bring your own to rap with or traverse 15' right and rap from the shuts above the 5.10 slab.
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 29, 2005

The rap slings are still in questionable shape as of mid April, 2005. I would have replaced one or two but was afraid I'd vomit on them after leading the damn climb.. It's not too hard to scramble right to Panic's anchors for a rap or wicked slab toprope session.-s
By Andy Leach
From: Denver, CO
Jul 11, 2005

Isn't the photo above of I.V. League? That's what my guidebook seems to indicate (Front Range Crags by Peter Hubbel). Hubbel's book calls the crack/flake system to the right of the bolted route (Panic in the Gray Room) Emergency Entrance.
By nick moeckel
Jul 11, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

On 7/10/05 I replaced the worst of the slingage and added a rap ring.

This was probably my least favorite climb at the crag. The interesting part is pretty short.
By Charles Danforth
From: L'ville, CO
Jul 11, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Interesting. The Classic Lyons Area guide (also by Hubbel) lists this route (the annoying flaring crack of extreme purple toenails) as Emergency Entrance while the far-right flake system is I.V. League.Either way, the latter is much more fun, whatever the name.
By outdooreric
From: Bishop, CA
Feb 25, 2008

Yesterday, there were no slings on the tree to rap from. I continued up higher then had to downclimb a couple moves to get to Panic in the Gray Room's anchors. Be prepared to do the same or move out just below the tree and go up 15 feet of unprotected slab. The tree although its big enough, doesn't seem to be that securely rooted. I wouldn't recommend setting a TR off of just the tree alone.

I did find a #3.5 and #4 Camalot to be useful and you could go bigger if you wanted. By climbing left side in, the climb is quite easy for 5.7.
By Greg Speer
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 2, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

It appears that MP has "Emergency Entrance" and "I.V. League" reversed. According to Hubbel's and Gillett's guidebooks, I.V. League is the offwidth to the left of Cyberchondrial Paranoia and Emergency Entrance is the dihedral/flake to the right of Panic in the Grey Room. MP has it backwards.
Mar 11, 2012

As of 3-11-12, the switch a route problem has been resolved! Thanks, Area Admins!

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