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Itsy Bitsy Boulder
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Itsy Bitsy Spider 

Itsy Bitsy Spider 

Hueco: V8 Font: 7B

   
Type:  Boulder, 11'
Original:  Hueco: V8 Font: 7B [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 468
Submitted By: Christian Prellwitz on Aug 26, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Sticking the crux deadpoint on 'Itsy Bitsy Spider'...

Description 

Start low on two obvious crimps. Pull off the ground and make a hard move right to either one of a pair of crimps. Move the feet around and make a hard deadpoint/jump for another sloping crimp below the lip with your left. For most people, this is the crux. However, you still have to figure out a way to latch the lip, which is harder than it initially seems.

This problem would be perfect if it was ten feet taller, but despite its relatively short stature, it still presents a great challenge and is a bit of an area testpiece.

Though I've never seen anyone use them, it should be noted that the left arete (and holds left of it) are not considered part of the problem.

Location 

This is on the trailside face of the Itsy Bitsy Boulder.

Protection 

A pad or two will suffice.


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By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Aug 26, 2012

There is a variation on this problem that finishes right. It starts the same, matches the pair of crimps up and to the right, then moves to another good crimp up and right, followed by a long pull to the lip. It is probably about a grade easier (V6/7), though matching the crimps is a good test of finger strength.
By ben jammin
From: Moab, UT
Dec 18, 2012

Arghhh, my never ending Telluride project. You'll have to give me some beta on this one. I'll be back next summer.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Dec 20, 2012

I'd be happy to share my beta with you. Be sure to check out the other 'hard' problems in the area. They are quite good as well.

The video that I have uploaded to the main Ilium page has footage of me sending both the regular version of this problem and the right exit. Check it out for beta.

I should have another video up at some point soon that will have another selection of some of the best problems from the area in it.

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